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Oil may not need to be changed every year....

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  • #16
    Glad the oil threads are keeping TT alive and well!

    Personally I don't think the oil needs to be changed annually, bit it's always been my practice. YMMV
    Prior boats - (3) X14's, (3) Prostars, and a Tristar.

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    • #17
      I figured this would create a bit of a stir. Just so that you know, I do not advocate letting oil sit in the engine for 2 years. My only statement was to maybe "not sweat it" if it don't get around to it. I know others will state "always make time for it, no excuse" and so be it but I wanted to give some actual measured data to show that the 50 hour rule can potentially be a bit more flexible so long as nothing is going wrong with the engine. I know people talk about the "acidity" of oil in the engine being bad for it, but I guess I would like to know if there is actual data on this vs just theories.

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      • #18
        Come on man, they proved acid was bad in the 60s and 70s. You ever try to hold a conversation with Ozzy? gezzz the hell man.
        -Tim

        Making boomers great again!! Boomin'

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        • #19
          Originally posted by JohnE View Post
          Glad the oil threads are keeping TT alive and well!

          Personally I don't think the oil needs to be changed annually, bit it's always been my practice. YMMV
          agreed... but i suppose "it depends".

          funny to see this pop up, i actually sent off a 20hr sample to blackstone just yesterday.
          we had a slow season this year with covid and a new born. i didnt bother changing it during layup this weekend but was curious to see what they say about 20hr ~1year old rotella. i suspect itll be nearly new, as with the crude visual check it nearly looks the part!

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          • #20
            How did a Moomba thread get posted here?




            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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            • #21
              Great thread , I agree that lightly used oil at the end of the season can likely be kept in the engine over the layup period, loved seeing the report.

              Clean oil is an engines friend, no doubt. Today’s high pressure direct injection engines are also dealing with new levels of carbon build up and I personally do not wait till the full change interval on my Ford EcoBoost or Audi engines.

              Our GM block based marine engines do a great job of running at temp ... an engineer at Lubrizol once wrote that at about 20-25 hours on our marine engines he advise enough contamination would exist to consider a total drain prior to layup .... he also said many of the same engines at 70 hours with synthetic oil were still very well protected in terms of lack of oil breakdown.

              So overall, I am a change every season at minimum guy and every 40-45 hours also.


              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
              Ski in snow, ski in water, and always have fun!

              2008 Prostar 214 MCX
              1995 Prostar 190 "Evil Minion"
              Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

              "Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
              "Do you have Flake on that boat?"

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              • #22
                Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
                Come on man, they proved acid was bad in the 60s and 70s. You ever try to hold a conversation with Ozzy? gezzz the hell man.
                [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]... come on man

                Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
                sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 93Prostar190 View Post
                  Great thread , I agree that lightly used oil at the end of the season can likely be kept in the engine over the layup period, loved seeing the report.

                  Clean oil is an engines friend, no doubt. Today’s high pressure direct injection engines are also dealing with new levels of carbon build up and I personally do not wait till the full change interval on my Ford EcoBoost or Audi engines.

                  Our GM block based marine engines do a great job of running at temp ... an engineer at Lubrizol once wrote that at about 20-25 hours on our marine engines he advise enough contamination would exist to consider a total drain prior to layup .... he also said many of the same engines at 70 hours with synthetic oil were still very well protected in terms of lack of oil breakdown.

                  So overall, I am a change every season at minimum guy and every 40-45 hours also.


                  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
                  Just another reason to drink some beers in the garage or driveway.. have a number people I know who have mercruisers and only change oil when they hit 50+ hours and engines still solid. However, l would like to see which engines fly by 1000 hours - every year oil or every year oil, plus add dino vs synth. Plus hyperlube zinc replacement or not

                  Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
                  sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
                    Come on man, they proved acid was bad in the 60s and 70s. You ever try to hold a conversation with Ozzy? gezzz the hell man.
                    define "bad"

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
                      agreed... but i suppose "it depends".

                      funny to see this pop up, i actually sent off a 20hr sample to blackstone just yesterday.
                      we had a slow season this year with covid and a new born. i didnt bother changing it during layup this weekend but was curious to see what they say about 20hr ~1year old rotella. i suspect itll be nearly new, as with the crude visual check it nearly looks the part!
                      the oil I sent it was not even close to looking new. I was pleasantly surprised at the result. Furthermore, the oil I got for the analysis was from the filter. I thought that might skew the results a bit to being even more dirty, but not the case.

                      The oil I extracted from my transmission looked new though. I probably should have just put it back in ha

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by jharmon203 View Post
                        define "bad"
                        5a: INJURIOUS, HARMFUL
                        -Tim

                        Making boomers great again!! Boomin'

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                        • #27
                          MCOCD is weak in here.

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                          • #28
                            If you like your oil, you can keep your oil. No one is going to make you change your oil or switch to another. Hmmmm.... I've heard something like that before.

                            I propose you see how long you can keep that oil as a service to TT. See how many years you can go with the same oil and we'll have a real world record on the results. I bet the oil filter won't need changing either so there's a saving there and another data point as well. Same with the trans fluid.

                            After say, 5 seasons you can send the results to Ilmor so they can reestablish their service recommendations and guidelines for warranty.

                            You'll also be able to advertise when you go to sell the boat that the oil was only changed when absolute necessary......

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by bturner2 View Post

                              I propose you see how long you can keep that oil as a service to TT. See how many years you can go with the same oil and we'll have a real world record on the results.
                              haha

                              im happy to post the results when i get them of the sample i mentioned earlier.
                              for science! :P

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                              • #30
                                While I’m of the opinion to change the oil during my winterization process, here’s a question for those calling out “acid” on metal parts...How do you get the film of used oil off of all the metal parts after shutting down for the season. The protective film that is currently coating all the bearings, crank, piston rings and sleeves, oil pumps, O-rings etc. also contains the very acid being discussed.

                                Looking forward to the commentary...

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