Oil may not need to be changed every year....

[RxMC]

I propose you see how long you can keep that oil as a service to TT. See how many years you can go with the same oil and we'll have a real world record on the results. I bet the oil filter won't need changing either so there's a saving there and another data point as well. Same with the trans fluid.

Propose all you want I'm sure it would take many years. In fact you'd never get there.

After say, 5 seasons you can send the results to Ilmor so they can reestablish their service recommendations and guidelines for warranty.

Five seasons, that's all?

[bturner2]

So you're in then right? Don't make this a measuring contest because that's certainly not what I'm doing. Start this season and post your results. That's all. Don't make it personal, this is supposed to be friendly site.

[mikeg205]

So much emotion for 20 to 30 bux..

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[RxMC]

So much emotion for 20 to 30 bux..

I love this forum and all of it's deep dive MasterCraft knowledge. Certainly nothing personal. I'd just call it silliness. Expect copious amounts when someone starts an oil thread!

A recurring theme seems to be that the oil is cheap and can be changed so quickly why not make it part of every post use wipe down/cleaning?

Or since many of the forum boats use ballast, why not plumb in two 55 gallon drums of your favorite oil? That would be under 900 lbs and your engine would constantly run on near new oil.

It's all personal preference I guess. Many here seem to change out their boats like socks so you would never really need to change anything if you're only keeping a new boat for a few years. That's what I meant when I said "you'd never get there".

[jharmon203]

Again my only intent on this forum was to show empirical data that says that low hours on oil under the 50 mark does potentially may not need to be changed every year.

In the cost of maintenance to a boat, it's sure is a lower one of course. I am not advising that others follow my example, but perhaps challenge a couple other members with different engines in the same situation to try it out as well. The only way to actually know an oil used up is to send it in for analysis. Mine looked super-black, so I was a bit surprised at the results.

Again just a thread I wanted to create in the "interesting" category.

[mikeg205]

Its an oil discussion, like talking politics and religion at Thanksgiving [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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[waterlogged882]

Again my only intent on this forum was to show empirical data that says that low hours on oil under the 50 mark does potentially may not need to be changed every year.

In the cost of maintenance to a boat, it's sure is a lower one of course. I am not advising that others follow my example, but perhaps challenge a couple other members with different engines in the same situation to try it out as well. The only way to actually know an oil used up is to send it in for analysis. Mine looked super-black, so I was a bit surprised at the results.

Again just a thread I wanted to create in the "interesting" category.

Agree.

.

[moosehead]

Oil may not need to be changed every year....

While I’m of the opinion to change the oil during my winterization process, here’s a question for those calling out “acid” on metal parts...How do you get the film of used oil off of all the metal parts after shutting down for the season. The protective film that is currently coating all the bearings, crank, piston rings and sleeves, oil pumps, O-rings etc. also contains the very acid being discussed.



Looking forward to the commentary...

Oil change.

[waterlogged882]

While I’m of the opinion to change the oil during my winterization process, here’s a question for those calling out “acid” on metal parts...How do you get the film of used oil off of all the metal parts after shutting down for the season. The protective film that is currently coating all the bearings, crank, piston rings and sleeves, oil pumps, O-rings etc. also contains the very acid being discussed.

Looking forward to the commentary...

Unsubstantiated myth. Look on any oil analysis report and show me acid. Most folks here have never had their oil in a lab for feedback. All read-and-repeat talk.

.

[John Johnson]

I have 8 hrs on my 3rd change of the season. It's going 30 more next.

[mike koen]

One of my trucks is a Freightliner with a cummins & allison combo. Rotella 15-40 same oil as the boat. I swear I can hear a noticeable difference in engine sound about a week before a service is due.

[ValveCoverGasket]

haha

im happy to post the results when i get them of the sample i mentioned earlier.
for science! :P

as promised



no alarm bells ringing hah

im not sure ill end up leaving it in all season but it got put away for the winter like this.
i thought i mentioned on the form that it was in already for about a year, but whatever...

we had a really short seasons hours wise for a variety of reasons this year.

[mikeg205]

No ph levels in their report.. new oils can prolly last multiple seasons, report not enough to cure mcocd

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[ValveCoverGasket]

Just sent them a reply asking that for follow-up, and mentioning that this sample was one year old.

I see TBN and TAN at the bottom of the report but not populated, maybe that's something they do for marine specific reports, not sure, I don't recall having an option to request they check that. But I know there's different forms you can request with the samples. We have a bunch of automotive ones at the shop so I filled it out as best as I could for the boat.

Will post with what they come back with

[ValveCoverGasket]

heres's what blackstone has to stay regarding the TBN and TAN (i asked them to run the test anyway on this sample, and will post what comes back)

Acidity isn't something that we measure in the standard analysis, but we do
have a couple related add-on tests called the TAN and TBN tests.

The TAN (total acid number) is exactly what it sounds like -- a measure of
acidity in the oil. I'll say, though, that we don't necessarily have good
or bad limits for this test.

The TBN (total base number) is generally more useful. It basically measures
the amount of active additive in the oil, and in our book, as long as the
TBN of an oil is above 1.0, there's enough additive to combat/neutralize
acids in the oil.

We don't consider these tests necessary to the analysis though, which is
why they're add-ons. Based on the results of the standard analysis, we
don't think you'd have any trouble leaving this oil in place for another
year. If you want to have either or both tests performed, though, let me know.

edit --

results back this afternoon

TAN - 2.4
TBN - 6.5 (target value shown as >1.0)

comments updated :

the TBN is a very strong 6.5 (1.0 is low) and the TAN reads 2.4