Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oil may not need to be changed every year....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    " I dont think ...."

    Hmmm. The science definitely states you will have no long term issues...etc
    ..

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

    Comment


    • #47
      I guess we'll see what that TBN number is, sounds like they'll have the results back tomorrow
      Then we can find the next reason to poke holes in it haha

      Comment


      • #48
        since its dark and rainy, something to keep arguing about

        it did get changed this season when i sent the sample, but wanted to follow up with 2 seasons and 30hr on it if anyone was curious.
        definitely not losing any sleep over it.

        Comment


        • #49
          Cool

          Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
          sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

          Comment


          • #50
            When I get in situations like this with oil or oil changes I just change the oil and leave the filter. I saw 15w40 Delo at NAPA for $13. For that kind of money I'll just change it.

            I get this wasn't the point of the thread but still, some things are just better done than not. At least for me.

            Comment


            • #51
              I geeked out on this oil analysis stuff a couple years ago. It is good fun as an engineer. I was also coming off rebuilding my truck motor at 66k miles so I was particularly interested in how it was going.

              Anyway, you should check out the Oil Analysis "SOS" kits from Caterpillar, because they are MUCH cheaper, like $12-15 each. I work for them so that's how I became aware of them, but I don't get a discount; I just buy them like any other person. Your local CAT Rental Store or CAT dealer would probably have them. Also get the sample gun. The way it works is that you buy the kit, and it comes with a prepaid envelope to send the sample back. Then you get a report a week or so later.

              FYI, one very important aspect of getting a good sample is to have your engine at operating temp and freshly shut off right before pulling the sample. This could be challenging in a boat though.
              Chris
              2001 Prostar 209

              Comment


              • #52
                If acids are the issue... do most of you run the engine a bit after the oil & filter change? If not the old oil is still on the bearing surfaces

                I have always run engine to operating temp , drained the block quickly, then adding the pink antifreeze, then draining the old oil...

                Maybe I should change the oil before adding the pink. That would mean at least 10 minutes of running new oil


                Thoughts???

                Comment


                • #53
                  Get off my lawn, and go change your oil egg roll!

                  No ones gonna wanna eat catfish fried in that stuff!
                  -Tim

                  Making boomers great again!! Boomin'

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by tommurtha View Post
                    If acids are the issue... do most of you run the engine a bit after the oil & filter change? If not the old oil is still on the bearing surfaces

                    I have always run engine to operating temp , drained the block quickly, then adding the pink antifreeze, then draining the old oil...

                    Maybe I should change the oil before adding the pink. That would mean at least 10 minutes of running new oil


                    Thoughts???
                    This certainly makes sense to run the engine with the new oil to "coat" everything with anti-corrosion stuff if it's truly an issue. At the end of the day, I will have to admit the only thing these oil reports prove is that the oil is still good to be used. It doesn't mean that there isn't damage being done to the engine with the old oil. The only way the test could truly be determined to to tear down the engines after seasons and seasons of one method vs the other. I guess the oil analysis on the next season could be an indication of wear because, if there are more metals than typical then the oil potentially could be the issue if the boat isn't being used all that much.

                    Because oil is one of the cheaper maintenance items on a boat, it makes complete sense to do it at the end of each year. However, don't pull your hair out if time doesn't allow for it. It's likely going to be ok.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      The wife and I rebuilt two decks this summer, so the only time my boat got used was when family showed up, which was mostly on holidays. I bet I didn't put 5 hours on the boat all summer. I changed the oil this weekend and it was as clear as the day I put it in last November.

                      This year was the first time in 33 years of marriage that I was hoping in-laws would show up on the weekend.
                      “You realize your odds of winning the lottery are the same as being mauled by a polar bear and a regular bear in the same day”….E-Trade Baby.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by tommurtha View Post
                        If acids are the issue... do most of you run the engine a bit after the oil & filter change? If not the old oil is still on the bearing surfaces

                        I have always run engine to operating temp , drained the block quickly, then adding the pink antifreeze, then draining the old oil...

                        Maybe I should change the oil before adding the pink. That would mean at least 10 minutes of running new oil


                        Thoughts???
                        it doesn't matter... but MCOCD says run it!

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          I change oil once per year no matter how many hours I put on unless I feel it needs it more often like when the kids ski 5 days in a row for many hours , then maybe even mid season too. I like knowing fresh oil is sitting in the engine over the long winter and ready to coat the engine at spring start up.Oil is cheap insurance for the expensive engine.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by tommurtha View Post
                            If acids are the issue... do most of you run the engine a bit after the oil & filter change? If not the old oil is still on the bearing surfaces
                            Always..

                            My actual winterization process is extremely streamlined, so as we reach the end of the season I usually switch off ethanol and to rec gas and try to run the ethanol low before switch over.

                            Then on the day we're pulling it I try to ski in the AM and get the boat nice and warmed up, then I change the oil and filter on the lift, clean the boat out of all the skis, vests, gloves, towels and crap. Then I grab my bucket with the tools I use to drain the water and a few jugs of antifreeze and we boat up to the launch and pull it. Drop the water out of it at the launch, add the antifreeze, wipe it down and it goes straight to the barn.

                            All told this is the fastest method for us because I don't have to haul the old and new oil out to the launch or do that at the storage barn I only need a couple of ratchets for the hose clamps and a bucket and antifreeze bottles and she's done at the lift. And it leaves all the summer boat stuff at the house too so less risk of loss/theft in storage.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              starting it after a long siesta causes the most damage to any motor regardless of any oil discussion.. if you are truly concerned then you would pull the safety lanyard spin the motor to get oil up into the journals and then start it... i don't know how else you can get oil to the bearings etc... wait fill it up till you can't put in any more in.. then drain it.. then fill it up to spec then start it!!!

                              I doubt it makes any difference - after 20 years mine runs just fine like my 2-20 year old motorcycles and even older cars and tractors...

                              oil threads are the best!

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                McDonald's uses canola oil, and their food always cleans me out. Must be good stuff.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X