Broken Weld on Trailer

[xbrdr1]

I have a 2016 single axle trailer that has a pretty good hop(while empty) starting at 20mph-30mph...then it calms down a bit but is still rough.

The image was sent to me from the dealer indicating a broken weld on the axle. Has anyone had a similar issue? Is there any other way to 'verify' it's broken?

Basically...any advice before dropping $3K to have a new one installed. Thank you.

[robadele]

I'm sure you could get it fixed for less at a trailer repair business and not the dealer...

[bturner2]

I would guess you have a manufacturing issue which caused the broken weld. I've had several trailers that have had the bouncing issue when empty (both MC and others) which I've found to be the nature of the beast of an empty trailer designed to have 4K or 5K of weight on them. None of them developed a crack due to the bouncing, if that was the source of the issue you might be inferring. It would have to be one heck of a bounce to get an empty trailer to crack a weld on an axle IMO. For my money my bet would be on a poor weld from the factory.

I would shop the fix with a shop that specializes in trailers and see how close the dealer is on pricing. $3K seem awful steep but in Covid times and in Biden dollars it could be spot on.

[waterlogged882]

I have a 2016 single axle trailer that has a pretty good hop(while empty) starting at 20mph-30mph...then it calms down a bit but is still rough.

The image was sent to me from the dealer indicating a broken weld on the axle. Has anyone had a similar issue? Is there any other way to 'verify' it's broken?

Basically...any advice before dropping $3K to have a new one installed. Thank you.

Look at it and see if it is broken. However I think you are implying you are not at the trailer. Is that a torsion axle?

I can't tell much from that photo but a broken weld is just that. I personally, coming from a past life of weld inspections (AWS CWI / EPRI VT), would not take the word of someone that may or may not know anything about a weld to the tune of $3K. Merely my $0.02 but I have been in the weld engineering line of work for a lot of years, thus the (substantiated) opinion.

In these type cases, most of the time the weld bead was made over the top of primer or paint (in a non-code enforced industry with no QC), the welder thinking the amperage in the arc will burn through the paint. Bad welder protocol. Should be sent back to the weld test booth for remedial 101 training.

A broken weld can also result from towing an empty trailer where there is cyclic motion that can break a (poorly fused) weld joint.

Show me another photo (or not) with the flash on to illuminate the subject area. This above attached photo is not much more than a silhouette.

There is a way to fix it. Most any (worthy) fabrication shop can help you out. Clean the weld joint, add any additional prep if necessary, and add filler material.

All subject to a clear visual inspection of the issue. Hard to tell from here. By not seeing a clear picture, it is hard to tell...I could be wrong (or not).

The two reds are where I think there are weld joints, in particular the one on the right., The yellow is what appears to be a stop, giving access to a grease zerk, but that may not be correct. Again, hard to tell. To the right of the (right) red box is a rotational pivot point. I hope I am seeing this correctly. I do not see a weld there and would not expect one to be there. Help me out here a little. Unless there is total loss there from what I can/cannot see, a fabrication shop should be able to get you back in business.

.

[lakedrum03]

Since WL is the master here and has contributed his $0.02, I will add my $0.01 to the conversation.

+1 on WL. The cap that is in the right hand red box is just a cap. It just keeps the crud out of the rubber spring. If its loose, then it shouldn't hurt anything.

The hop is probably due to an unbalanced tire, plus an unsupported and unloaded trailer. Watch your trailer flex and vibrate when the boat isn't on it. These trailers utilize the weight and the contact of the boat to provide stiffness to the frame.

My first step would be to get the tires checked out.

[waterlogged882]

Since WL is the master here and has contributed his $0.02, I will add my $0.01 to the conversation.

+1 on WL. The cap that is in the right hand red box is just a cap. It just keeps the crud out of the rubber spring. If its loose, then it shouldn't hurt anything.

The hop is probably due to an unbalanced tire, plus an unsupported and unloaded trailer. Watch your trailer flex and vibrate when the boat isn't on it. These trailers utilize the weight and the contact of the boat to provide stiffness to the frame.

My first step would be to get the tires checked out.

^ ^ ^ this as well, and first step as mentioned.

If you do not see a broken weld, don't take the bait. A visual inspection will tell the tale.

.

[xbrdr1]

Thank you bturner2, waterlogged882, and lakedrum03 for the great analysis and opinions.... much appreciated. A bit more detail, both tires blew out within 10min of each other. So, different rims and tires are on it still since the accident. I'm going to put new OEM tires and the rims back on and then snatch the trailer from the MC dealer and take(hop) it to the 'reputable' trailer shop. I'll keep this updated to hopefully help someone else.

[lakedrum03]

I have been having good luck with the Goodyear endurance tires. The side walls are stiffer than molasses in January.

[waterlogged882]

I have been having good luck with the Goodyear endurance tires. The side walls are stiffer than molasses in January.

Same here. I really like that tire. Have them on my trailer now. These are for the 14" / 5 lug wheel. Yours may have the 15" / 6 lug but that is OK too.

.


.

[waterlogged882]

Thank you bturner2, waterlogged882, and lakedrum03 for the great analysis and opinions.... much appreciated. A bit more detail, both tires blew out within 10min of each other. So, different rims and tires are on it still since the accident. I'm going to put new OEM tires and the rims back on and then snatch the trailer from the MC dealer and take(hop) it to the 'reputable' trailer shop. I'll keep this updated to hopefully help someone else.

Any reputable fabrication shop can help you out. I have a local fab shop in my county that is priceless and superb with their skilled fabricators that work there. That is my go-to place every time.

Best on the resolution. Keep this thread updated please.

.

[bturner2]

Those new Goodyear's will be the next trailer tires I buy. I still have a couple years left on the cheap China junk the trailer manufacture put on mine when new. That said (knock on wood) they've done well so far.

[dt37803]

With an empty trailer I always use the brake lockout key on the side of the actuator. I hold it in place with a large magnet. Without it the trailer brakes lock up with even the slightest braking of the tow vehicle and the trailer bounces like a bull at a rodeo.

[xbrdr1]

Thanks again for all the suggestions. After putting OEM tires on the original rims, and balanced, the trailer ran very smooth with no hop. Discount Tire did not visually see anything wrong with the tires that were on the trailer. I was very surprised it was a simple tire issue with the amount of hop that was experienced. Lesson learned.... since MC doesn't make their own trailers anymore, take any trailer issues to a trailer shop.

[lakedrum03]

Glad to see this worked out for you.

I would also never go back to the guy that said you needed a new axle. Guy clearly doesn’t know what he is doing or is a liar.

[waterlogged882]

Glad to see this worked out for you.

I would also never go back to the guy that said you needed a new axle. Guy clearly doesn’t know what he is doing or is a liar.

Another dealer testimony on the broken weld diagnosis. Reminds me of inside the Beltway.

.