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Need some advice/guidance on LED ID Light Bar for underside of trailer

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  • Need some advice/guidance on LED ID Light Bar for underside of trailer

    So replacing all my incandescent trailer lights with LED and last up is the red 3 light ID light bar on the underside near the tracking fins.

    I got all setup and crawled under and realized the existing light bar is riveted to the frame on each end. Realize I can simply drill them out, but then what? Do I just need to hit harbor freight or home depot and pick up the hand tool? Is the rivet going to extend far enough into the frame to grab hold and pinch off? Don't have much experience using that tool and the new light bar stands off the frame a bit. See pic. Any advice?

    Click image for larger version

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    ¡Viva 205V!
    2003 X2 MCX

  • #2
    I just drilled the rivets out on mine, then ran big enough self tapping sheet metal screws into the holes. Worked like a charm.

    —Sky
    ------------------------------------------------
    2006 X-1 Pumpkin Orange SOLD
    2013 X25 Black, Green & Orange

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    • #3
      Either way; Drill the rivets out and put in new ones or run in the self-tappers. Tapping screws is the least costly unless you just want a rivet tool.

      As you drill out the rivets, use a drill bit the size of the head and drill the head off then punch out the rivet. Otherwise trying to drill through the rivet will just spin it in the hole.

      A new rivet will go in as far as the body of the rivet is (in length) that you choose to buy. The manual gun will expand the rivet...pump it twice or three times and it will snap off the pin flush. Done deal.

      .
      93 190
      .

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      • #4
        Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll give the self-tapping screws a shot. Hopefully the hole size on the bar itself is big enough to accommodate the appropriate size to grab some meat on the frame.
        ¡Viva 205V!
        2003 X2 MCX

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        • #5
          Originally posted by brucemac View Post
          Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll give the self-tapping screws a shot. Hopefully the hole size on the bar itself is big enough to accommodate the appropriate size to grab some meat on the frame.
          A note of experience: If you need to drill that hole out larger, use a step down drill bit instead of a spiral bit. The step down bit it easier on the hole for a clean hole. Works like a lucky charm as long as the thickness of the backing is not thicker than the depth of the hole size increment. The cheap one works fine for this application.

          This is also applicable when drilling out a ring terminal connector. Saves a lot of work and headache by not twisting and ruining a nice connector.

          .
          93 190
          .

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          • #6
            if you had true MCOCD you would drill and tap holes for stainless 10/24 machine screws

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            • #7
              Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post

              A note of experience: If you need to drill that hole out larger, use a step down drill bit instead of a spiral bit. The step down bit it easier on the hole for a clean hole. Works like a lucky charm as long as the thickness of the backing is not thicker than the depth of the hole size increment. The cheap one works fine for this application.

              This is also applicable when drilling out a ring terminal connector. Saves a lot of work and headache by not twisting and ruining a nice connector.

              .
              Appreciate the tip, thank you!
              ¡Viva 205V!
              2003 X2 MCX

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Miss Rita View Post
                if you had true MCOCD you would drill and tap holes for stainless 10/24 machine screws
                HA! I can barely squeeze in under there, let alone move around much!
                ¡Viva 205V!
                2003 X2 MCX

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