2004 tandem - reliable components removal

[ValveCoverGasket]

figured id throw this out there for anyone looking to remove their Reliable components
i tried to piece together bits and pieces from various TT threads, but maybe this saves someone with an early 2000s reliable-equipped trailer a few minutes of searching.

i wanted to replace all the hydraulic parts on our tandem axle x9 trailer


parts list

swingaway and actuator from https://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/

swingaway - ST-UFP47564-1
actuator- ST-UFP34044
lockout cap - ST-UFP34359


calipers from https://www.etrailer.com/

loaded with pads and mounting hardware - KDBC225DAC


hoses from https://www.pacifictrailers.com/

i just ordered 5x (4 for the calipers and one for the actuator) of the 18" long - #32324
the actuator one could have been a hair shorter but it worked out fine
and 4x lock clips - #1457 (probably could have reused what i had but wanted to be sure...)

and finally, with how long it took to get the old nasty rust fluid out, i wouldnt bother doing this without a power bleeder, i already had the motive setup but needed the master cylinder adapter.
they have a "marine" unit that fits the 3/4" UFP cap perfectly

https://www.motiveproducts.com/

"1130 BOAT TRAILER ADAPTER PRESS-FIT STYLE"


i think there are other places to cross shop a lot of this stuff but i found this mix and match to be the best on pricing and shipping (to me on the west coast)
i was also doing this at our storage spot, so i wanted to make sure i had everything on hand to minimize trips and having this halfway apart for extended periods. id been putting this off forever but a couple weeks ago had a dragging rear brake and enough was enough.

pictures!












that classic "reliable" look!








it was time... all the brake hoses were rock hard and cracking




good time to do the hub fluid (i had to do a rear seal along the way anyway)








someone had already done a kodiak install on one corner, but this trailer has been pretty neglected... so.. better safe than sorry




bleeding time! super easy access to the bleed screws with the wheels on






finally, all new





hope this is able to save someone a few mintues!

if i hadnt had to gather and carry tools out to the boat, this would have been a 3 or 4 hour job. easily doable on a lazy afternoon.

[Double D]

Good stuff. I have to do my actuator sometime this winter.

[93Prostar190]

Heck yeah, did mine earlier this year and happy with results. My trailer is a 2008 and I bought the UFP60 for dual axle ......

Did not match paint on the Zinc unit, happy with braking ... no more bucking!



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[mikeg205]

Good work

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[prostar205]

Thanks for the write up and pics. This helps a lot. This will be a winter project as I rarely trailer my boat. It sits on a lift at the lake.

[Fullpass]

ugh…things on the to do list…thx for sharing

[ValveCoverGasket]

happy to help

its a pretty simple job really, but costs a bit.

have to say now that we're starting to tow the boat again i really should have done this sooner. the braking action is so smooth, and the lack of loud clunks at a stop, im realizing how bad the reliable stuff was before haha

[MariStar-Man]

great write up!

Doing much of what you have posted here. Ordered parts today


Thanks so much for putting this all together...

[sock-feet]

figured id throw this out there for anyone looking to remove their Reliable components
i tried to piece together bits and pieces from various TT threads, but maybe this saves someone with an early 2000s reliable-equipped trailer a few minutes of searching.

i wanted to replace all the hydraulic parts on our tandem axle x9 trailer


parts list

swingaway and actuator from https://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/

swingaway - ST-UFP47564-1
actuator- ST-UFP34044
lockout cap - ST-UFP34359


calipers from https://www.etrailer.com/

loaded with pads and mounting hardware - KDBC225DAC


hoses from https://www.pacifictrailers.com/

i just ordered 5x (4 for the calipers and one for the actuator) of the 18" long - winterizing Ballest Tanks 06 X2
the actuator one could have been a hair shorter but it worked out fine
and 4x lock clips - Milkmania (probably could have reused what i had but wanted to be sure...)

and finally, with how long it took to get the old nasty rust fluid out, i wouldnt bother doing this without a power bleeder, i already had the motive setup but needed the master cylinder adapter.
they have a "marine" unit that fits the 3/4" UFP cap perfectly

https://www.motiveproducts.com/

"1130 BOAT TRAILER ADAPTER PRESS-FIT STYLE"


i think there are other places to cross shop a lot of this stuff but i found this mix and match to be the best on pricing and shipping (to me on the west coast)
i was also doing this at our storage spot, so i wanted to make sure i had everything on hand to minimize trips and having this halfway apart for extended periods. id been putting this off forever but a couple weeks ago had a dragging rear brake and enough was enough.

pictures!












that classic "reliable" look!








it was time... all the brake hoses were rock hard and cracking




good time to do the hub fluid (i had to do a rear seal along the way anyway)








someone had already done a kodiak install on one corner, but this trailer has been pretty neglected... so.. better safe than sorry




bleeding time! super easy access to the bleed screws with the wheels on






finally, all new





hope this is able to save someone a few mintues!

if i hadnt had to gather and carry tools out to the boat, this would have been a 3 or 4 hour job. easily doable on a lazy afternoon.

What oil/grease seals did you get? Did you reuse the see through caps? Are the caps press in or threaded?

[ValveCoverGasket]

What oil/grease seals did you get? Did you reuse the see through caps? Are the caps press in or threaded?

oh boy... me and reliable oil seals...

let me skip to your last couple questions -
i reused the caps, the cap body is pressed in and the plastic sight is pressed into that.
i did have some minor leaks around the plastic on one cap and fixed that with a small skim of permatex right at the lip where the plastic meets the aluminum cap.
im also using a small skim of permatex on the cap to help prevent dripping where it presses in

i ended up having to replace a wear sleeve and reseal one corner the spring after making this post - that wear sleeve adventure is here

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/94332-tandem-reliable-wear-sleeves

a word of warning though -- a lot of the seals around are for grease, not oil, and dont keep oil in or water out like theyre supposed to if youre running oil.
so watch out for that
the oil bath part number was a little tricky to find in stock.
you have to look specifically for that part number as the suffix changes depending on oil or grease (the number of lips the seal has)

theres more discussion of the specific seals and part numbers here -

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/93698-oil-bath-removal-and-refresh#post2220745

and i posted everything ive learned about the seal circus at the end of that thread -

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/93698-oil-bath-removal-and-refresh?p=2220755#post2220755

a long reply to a short question, but hopefully that gets you the info you need

[sock-feet]

oh boy... me and reliable oil seals...

let me skip to your last couple questions -
i reused the caps, the cap body is pressed in and the plastic sight is pressed into that.
i did have some minor leaks around the plastic on one cap and fixed that with a small skim of permatex right at the lip where the plastic meets the aluminum cap.
im also using a small skim of permatex on the cap to help prevent dripping where it presses in

i ended up having to replace a wear sleeve and reseal one corner the spring after making this post - that wear sleeve adventure is here

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/94332-tandem-reliable-wear-sleeves

a word of warning though -- a lot of the seals around are for grease, not oil, and dont keep oil in or water out like theyre supposed to if youre running oil.
so watch out for that
the oil bath part number was a little tricky to find in stock.
you have to look specifically for that part number as the suffix changes depending on oil or grease (the number of lips the seal has)

theres more discussion of the specific seals and part numbers here -

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/93698-oil-bath-removal-and-refresh#post2220745

and i posted everything ive learned about the seal circus at the end of that thread -

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/forum/maintenance-tips-how-tos-and-refurbishing-topics/trailers/93698-oil-bath-removal-and-refresh?p=2220755#post2220755

a long reply to a short question, but hopefully that gets you the info you need

I think I am going to try these for the oil bath deal. https://www.etrailer.com/p-xlprolube1980.html

[sock-feet]

I think I am going to try these for the oil bath deal. https://www.etrailer.com/p-xlprolube1980.html

Kodiak oil bath hub

[ValveCoverGasket]

i have a set of those on the shelf in case one of the plastic window'd factory ones breaks ill swap them all over, but luckily havent needed them yet!

[osmonet]

Great write up thanks for all the detail. Wish I has this when I did mine.

I'll add one small tidbit which came as a nasty surprise during my installation.

I was unable to remove the 5/8 bolt despite multiple attempts. Eventually, I ended up twisting the head of the bolt, and had to cut the head off. I was then left with the choice of drilling or torching it out. I chose drilling.

If you do this, make sure you;
1. Punch the old bolt, and are dead center with your pilot hole.
2. Final drill bit is 11/16" (likely stepping up 4 times)
3. Unless you have vice grips for hands, a 1/2" corded drill will catch and damn near break your wrists. Not to mention almost impossible to keep straight over a 5" run.

I ended up using a BUX mag drill. Worked great, but still tool a LONG time.

[ValveCoverGasket]

Holy moly! Ive only run into those at work for frame drilling on trucks. Wild! Which 5/8 bolt was that? The swing both for the actuator?