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  • Trailer Hub / Bearing... ***

    Hitting major issues on my trailer. Figured I would start with new tires. Done. Removed dust cap to find this liquid, brown, milky, what seemed to be at one point grease. I was hoping to remove the brake (need help there) pull the hub, repack the bearing and be on my way to spring. Now I am disheartened and do not know where to go from here. I guess disassembly. Does the old grease mean I should replace everything? Very bummed out.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Originally posted by tjrowbot View Post
    Hitting major issues on my trailer. Figured I would start with new tires. Done. Removed dust cap to find this liquid, brown, milky, what seemed to be at one point grease. I was hoping to remove the brake (need help there) pull the hub, repack the bearing and be on my way to spring. Now I am disheartened and do not know where to go from here. I guess disassembly. Does the old grease mean I should replace everything? Very bummed out.
    Keep going as planned. That is pretty typical (maybe less the loss of the consistency of the grease).

    The old grease does not necessarily mean replace everything, but certainly a consideration...no better time than now and relatively inexpensive and an easy DIY.

    Brakes are pretty much same as any auto. You'll need to bleed the air from the lines when done.

    Bearings and seals are also easily replaced. You may have to punch out the race and seat it back in with a socket, but that too is par.

    The hub will come off by removal of the cotter pin, then the castle nut. It should come right off.

    From the visual of the disc, I'd replace that too. I am not big on machining (turning).

    Looks like a little salt residue but maybe not in Michigan. That is one of my favorite places to look for salt or brackish use...pull the trailer wheel.

    Hence and go forth. You're on the right track.

    .
    Last edited by waterlogged882; 02-08-2021, 01:36 PM.
    93 190
    (safe click)
    John 14:6
    (safe click)

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    • #3
      Ok, ok, she is all apart now. Can't seem, to get the inner bearing out, but I have not tried to knock it out through the axle opening (from the front).

      Am I on the right track that I can repack these bearings with high temp boat trailer grease from the auto store? I was reading about oil bath bearings and seeing the liquid type grease pouring out I am concerned I am doing the wrong thing here.

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      • #4
        Use boat trailer synthetic grease or mobil 1 grease... check spindle for galling... dont feel bad, i have to replace backing plates on my trailer. Replaced wheel cylinders then found broken brake shoe.. I spend more time on trailer than boat...

        Cant complain really.. last time I update breaks was 8 years ago.

        And I would get new rotors with new races, bearings and seals.. cheap stuff and will prevent a headache trailering.

        I clean, repack, add new seal every season. Just gives me piece of mind, with something I dunk into a river after driving 20 miles one way.

        Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
        sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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        • #5
          Would you say I have oil bath hubs then? It would make sense since when I knocked the cap off milky oil came out. Please confirm!

          This means I cannot use the thick grease out of a can like I had thought? Learning way too much about wheel hubs, but the good thing is that it is still winter.

          If it is an oil bath, once I put everything together, then a cap full of oil and close her up?

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          • #6
            No on the oil bath, your grease was mixed with water due to water leaking thru the rear seal, that is why it's milky looking. This is why you should never shove your boat in the water right after coming off the highway. Give it 15-20 minutes for the bearings and hubs to cool down a little before dunking the trailer in cold water. Replace your seals and repack the bearings with synthetic waterproof grease.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by tjrowbot View Post
              Ok, ok, she is all apart now. Can't seem, to get the inner bearing out, but I have not tried to knock it out through the axle opening (from the front).

              Am I on the right track that I can repack these bearings with high temp boat trailer grease from the auto store? I was reading about oil bath bearings and seeing the liquid type grease pouring out I am concerned I am doing the wrong thing here.
              Punch it out from the opposite end.

              You can repack with grease from auto store as long as it is for this application. Repacking is messy and for what little a set of bearings cost, new bearings would be my choice. Then get a set of Bearing Buddies from Scamazon, install on the hub when done and fill with fresh grease. These will go back onto the hub in place of the OEM cap.

              The liquid grease is water mixed. Not the best scenario but the positive thing is that you opened up the hub and there were no ball bearing parts falling out (your bearings were still in tact).

              Keep going with a new install and the proper grease.

              Erase oil bath from your mind and vocabulary. Forever.

              You're on the right track.

              .
              Last edited by waterlogged882; 02-08-2021, 08:07 PM.
              93 190
              (safe click)
              John 14:6
              (safe click)

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              • #8
                Yeah, the inner race is a bit of a problem to get out. Any local garage or machine shop will press out your old ones and press in new ones for a nominal sum. When I did mine, I took the “whack it with a hammer approach. Eminently doable given the correct (or gently abused) tool.
                1998 Maristar 200VRS

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by FrankSchwab View Post
                  Yeah, the inner race is a bit of a problem to get out. Any local garage or machine shop will press out your old ones and press in new ones for a nominal sum. When I did mine, I took the “whack it with a hammer approach. Eminently doable given the correct (or gently abused) tool.
                  Drift punch and a big ol' hammer... indeed...
                  Click image for larger version

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                  .
                  93 190
                  (safe click)
                  John 14:6
                  (safe click)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
                    Drift punch and a big ol' hammer... indeed...
                    [ATTACH]201488[/ATTACH]

                    .
                    This is where Harbor Freight comes in handy. A 3-pound hammer and a 3/4" brass drift (that they don't sell anymore) worked well for me.
                    1998 Maristar 200VRS

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                    • #11
                      You can also take a look the bearings and seals for part numbers. They are printed on them. Then I found some sets on Amazon. The races also have numbers and if you can see it, that would be ideal.

                      For my 93' trailer, I found the bearings to be correct, but there were two different races (different outer diameters), and of course I got the wrong one initially.

                      The Timken sets were like $10-$12 (including race). Not a bad price.
                      - Jeff

                      1994 205, LT1

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                      • #12
                        Thank you for all the input guys. I should have given a little more detail on my trailer. It is a 2000, dual axle, with 4 disc brakes. 2 of 4 hubs are off and disassembled. I have 4 new dual lip seals on the way. I cannot read the print on the bearings so I will take them to NAPA (insert whatever auto store). When I dropped off my tires to get mounted I had my local trusted mechanic look at the races and he said they look fine. I am going to clean the bearings, pack with lucas marine grease (green stuff), and put back together waiting on the seals which are coming Thursday. I also got bearing buddies to put on the end. Also coming Thursday.

                        Funny thing, I do hate the PO of my boat, but I have learned a lot. When I cleaned the dust cap from the first wheel, it was actually darkened hard plastic that showed the oil bath level. I feel like an idiot when it comes to these things, but appreciate all the input. I truly do!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by tjrowbot View Post
                          Thank you for all the input guys. I should have given a little more detail on my trailer. It is a 2000, dual axle, with 4 disc brakes. 2 of 4 hubs are off and disassembled. I have 4 new dual lip seals on the way. I cannot read the print on the bearings so I will take them to NAPA (insert whatever auto store). When I dropped off my tires to get mounted I had my local trusted mechanic look at the races and he said they look fine. I am going to clean the bearings, pack with lucas marine grease (green stuff), and put back together waiting on the seals which are coming Thursday. I also got bearing buddies to put on the end. Also coming Thursday.

                          Funny thing, I do hate the PO of my boat, but I have learned a lot. When I cleaned the dust cap from the first wheel, it was actually darkened hard plastic that showed the oil bath level. I feel like an idiot when it comes to these things, but appreciate all the input. I truly do!
                          Best on the install.

                          Patience.

                          .
                          93 190
                          (safe click)
                          John 14:6
                          (safe click)

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                          • #14
                            The attached has the bearing/race/seal information that probably applies to your trailer (you probably have dual 3500 pound axles). It might help with sourcing the correct parts.
                            Attached Files
                            1998 Maristar 200VRS

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by FrankSchwab View Post
                              The attached has the bearing/race/seal information that probably applies to your trailer (you probably have dual 3500 pound axles). It might help with sourcing the correct parts.
                              Frank, thank you, nice to have some validation on my numbers.

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