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Prop damage.

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  • jpwhit
    replied
    I tend to use re-built props as backups. They are rarely as smooth as a brand new virgin CNC'ed prop. But it does vary from prop rebuild to prop rebuild and the nature of the damage. My experience is that when just 1 blade is damaged that seems to be the hardest case to get vibration free. I think it's because re-working just one blade tends to change the metal flex pattern of that blade to be inconsistent with the other blades.

    It also depends on your sensitivity to new vibrations. And I am talking about props rebuilt by OJ and Acme directly. I've also sent a rebuilt prop back to OJ with details about the RPM and speed where I'm getting vibration and they always tend to be able to improve it. But I can still usually tell the difference between a never damaged prop and the rebuilt ones. I think they are good enough to use full time if the subtle vibrations don't bother you. And about 1 of 5 times the rebuilt prop does run smooth enough that I can't tell the difference with new.

    And yes, I've had lot of props rebuilt. So many so that I have complementary T-shirts from both OJ and Acme... Damaging props just comes with the territory when you push the limits of tucking slalom courses into shallow coves for the sake of calm water. But I'm embarrassed to say I've damaged a few props on my wake boat as well. And then there's the ski club boat too.

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  • LakeLuv
    replied
    Prop puller is a must! IMO. Eric at OJ is the ticket. They could not fix my stainless unfortunately but recommended an upgrade for my use and I had it within the week. Just call them and they will get you through it.

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  • lakedrum03
    replied
    Originally posted by jtryon View Post
    a prop puller makes it an easy job, just buy one for now and future use.
    Agreed. You can also make one from a harbor freight clamp and and 15 minutes of grinding time.

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  • jtryon
    replied
    a prop puller makes it an easy job, just buy one for now and future use.

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  • bturner2
    replied
    I had one similar to this. I sent it back to OJ and you couldn't tell it had been repaired, it ran out great. As far as removal.... I would recommend a prop puller but I have used a torch before to heat the hub and mine popped off after a few taps with a hammer on a block of wood against the hub. Again, I would recommend a prop puller unless you are in dire straights like we were while on vacation.

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  • lakedrum03
    replied
    Speak to Eric at oj. They will repair their props. Just mail it in and they send it back.

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  • cmcmahen5
    replied
    Bumping this thread. Any input on my prop damage and how to handle would also be greatly appreciated? Also, I cannot get this prop off for the life of me. Do I need to purchase a prop puller or is there another method to getting it lose?
    Attached Files

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  • LakeLuv
    replied
    Thanks for the input.. I do agree with all of the above. Another prop was in the pipeline anyway to better handle added ballast. To be clear I was hoping to fix this one for a backup and because it was the original. OJ reported it is not repairable. Oh well, on the wall of shame it goes.

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  • robadele
    replied
    You can get it fixed, but it may not be worth it. Since a piece is missing, they will have to weld on replacement material. As opposed to a bend when they can just straighten the prop. I also share the concern about the type of impact to your driveline. I'd rather lose a prop than break a part in the transmission. Outboards often have a shear key that is meant to break during impact. I don't think an inboard has this same safety feature.

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  • jtryon
    replied
    make this your opportunity to change to a nibral prop and ditch the stainless. if a stainless prop takes a hit it's more likely that something else in the drive train gets damaged instead of the prop, which would likely be a much more expensive repair. stainless props belong on bass boats, not wake boats.

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  • LakeLuv
    started a topic Prop damage.

    Prop damage.

    Well, I found a Stump or rock yesterday. Really my fault for getting too shallow and luckily only at idle. I will contact OJ, but from anyones experience is this repairable seeing as its missing a piece? I hate to lose the stainless.
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