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Possible to replace engine in the lenco trim tab?

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  • Possible to replace engine in the lenco trim tab?

    Hi

    I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to change the engine inside of the lenco actuator. I have opened it due to flooding during the last ride of last season. The whole actuator is quite expensive (at least here in Scandinavia). I have a 2007 X-30 btw.

    Also another problem is that the metal shaft is loose and comes off when reversing to hard/fast. I usually just pushed it back in. Is it possible to glue in some way?

    See my attached photos.

    Click image for larger version

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    Also, A screw has been lost on a "weight" on the drive shaft, just before the propeller strut. I have no idea what this weight is called. So now it is sliding on the shaft. Is this a problem for the "balance" of the driveshaft, or what is its function? I see some mastercraft boats have them, others don't. See photo and please teach me about its function and how I can find a screw that will tighten it.

    Click image for larger version

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    Very thankful for any advice!

  • #2
    I don't know anything about the trim tab actuator, but can help with your second question. That ball shaped thing on your propshaft is not a weight. It is a sacrificial anode to help prevent galvanic corrosion. Whether you need it or not depends on the water you boat in and how long you leave your boat in the water. I would replace the bolt though.

    https://www.solentanodes.co.uk/produ...45mm-ball-zinc

    https://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1175

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    • #3
      Thanks for the explaining. It was a bit hard to search for information about it since i did not know what it was even called. I have a saltwater edition, but keep it in a lake for the time being.

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      • #4
        The anode is there because it is a saltwater edition. If you are in fresh water, you don't need it.

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        • #5
          People sell those motors on ebay - but I think your actuator is broken, that shaft is pushed in and out by a ball screw, It sounds like what the top of the shaft is supposed to be connected to has come undone - don't know if thats a pressed fit threaded insert or what - but it should come out.

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          • #6
            As far as the anode goes, you should be able to find a similarly sized replacement screw/nut at a hardware store. Pull the remaining one out, try to find a match in the fastener section.
            If you have a drill and bits, you could always go with the closest size larger, and drill out the hole to fit.
            G

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            • #7
              The electric motor is available on ebay

              https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...0AAOSwOIxclkjn

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              • #8
                Let us know if you rebuild it successfully. Did you contact lenco to ask them if they sold any parts. Seems you could get some new seals at least.
                2014 x46

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                • #9
                  I will let you know. It is going to have to wait until after easter though as i am going on a trip abroad and dont have time until after returning.

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                  • #10
                    I have tested the actuator engine and it works still after the water leakage. However, im not sure as how to fix the botom part of the actuator (the pipe that comes loose when reversing). Im therefor leaning towards just ordering a new actuator to also be sure i wont have further leackage.

                    I read some people are using Bennet trimtab which comes with a better waranty. My question is which of those that would fit a mastercraft X-30 2007. Same question also for the lenco as i see there are different models. I only have one tab in the middle of the aft (gen1?). Also, would it be possible to upgrade with flaps on the sides on my model?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by M30 View Post
                      I have tested the actuator engine and it works still after the water leakage. However, im not sure as how to fix the botom part of the actuator (the pipe that comes loose when reversing). Im therefor leaning towards just ordering a new actuator to also be sure i wont have further leackage.

                      I read some people are using Bennet trimtab which comes with a better waranty. My question is which of those that would fit a mastercraft X-30 2007. Same question also for the lenco as i see there are different models. I only have one tab in the middle of the aft (gen1?). Also, would it be possible to upgrade with flaps on the sides on my model?
                      I think you would want the compact one. Just a guess I have no idea what the tabs look like or the hull for that matter. I would probably replace both or go back with the same model lenco.
                      2014 x46

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by M30 View Post
                        I have tested the actuator engine and it works still after the water leakage. However, im not sure as how to fix the botom part of the actuator (the pipe that comes loose when reversing). Im therefor leaning towards just ordering a new actuator to also be sure i wont have further leackage.

                        I read some people are using Bennet trimtab which comes with a better waranty. My question is which of those that would fit a mastercraft X-30 2007. Same question also for the lenco as i see there are different models. I only have one tab in the middle of the aft (gen1?). Also, would it be possible to upgrade with flaps on the sides on my model?


                        If you want a new actuator, you will have to check compatibility of the actuator (most likely the 101XDS) with the control box. I believe Lenco changed their models from 2011 to 2012 and if you can’t find your model somewhere, there is a risk that your control box and the new actuator aren’t compatible. Lenco has a pretty good pdf on their homepage for this, also for determining what models of actuator and control boxes you have.

                        The above is for your center tab, called attitude adjustment plate at the time, and what it does is to lift the aft of the boat/bring the nose down. Helpful for faster planing and reducing wake size for skiing, but also to somewhat influence length of the wake for surfing.

                        Most people are interested in these tabs for wakesurfing. Assuming that this is the case, the below is an overview:

                        The upgrade you are talking about became available first in 2010 models and are called surf tabs. Until 2014 models they were same type of tabs that would be used as trim tabs for other boats and are referred to as Gen 1. With the model year 2014 came Gen 2 to MC boats with a very different and custom shape for each model. The Gen 1 tabs could be added, but are largely useless to build a proper wake for surfing. The Gen 2 tabs are not available for your boat. In both cases you would also need switches and control box for the tabs and their actuators.

                        When starting from scratch on these surf tabs, the GSA system is the way to go. For 4k USD you’ll get everything you need, but you’ll have to install yourself or add cost for installation.

                        Then, of course, there are cheaper ways of getting to a nice surf wake, but they’ll be a step down in one or several ways like setup speed, wake variability, ability to transfer from port/starboard wakes and back while riding, etc. You’ll find plenty of information here in threads about wakeshaping devices, suck gates, wake gates, etc

                        TH



                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the info

                          I have ordered a new one. I'm still a bit unsure if the cable will be different (connections). but in that case, could i just use the old one?

                          Im not going back to my boat before in about one and a half week, but I will post an update when i have tested.

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