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JimN JimN is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 28
  1. JimN
    08-31-2019 08:08 PM
    Again, don't replace parts unless you're absolutely sure they're bad- it's a waste of time and money.

    My manual shows that the fuel pressure should be 27-33 psi, but I remember the earliest models being lower, although I'm not sure it was 1si.

    Make sure to test the fuel pressure the way I recommended. If you're not on the water when you do it, don't bother- it's not a valid test unless the boat is under load. The majority of issues I saw that were like yours were from some kind of obstruction in the fuel flow, at the pump, fuel pickup, anti-siphon valve or the fuel shutoff. Make sure the fuel line isn't being pinched, too.
  2. skip.renaissance@yahoo.com
    08-31-2019 10:08 AM
    [email protected]
    Hi Jim
    The NSS was just a loose wire and is now working. Do you know what injectors belong in this boat?
    It seems that other people have had a problem avove 3,400 rpm due to a bad fuel pick up. l might open the gas tank and check that.
    I drained the fuel from the separator and there was no water and it seemed fine.
  3. skip.renaissance@yahoo.com
    08-27-2019 07:59 PM
    [email protected]
    Hi Jim
    l am new to the site and just realized l can message you directly. l have a 1994 maristar 225 vrs that is making me nuts. Would you be willing to help me trouble shoot it. l have noticed your posts seem to be very knowledgeable.
  4. JimN
    05-20-2017 09:26 AM
    While the IAC could cause this, I would look for intake leaks first. Also, clean the flame arrestor- I have seen an amazing number that looked like they were never cleaned.

    You should be able to hear the IAC move when the key it turned Off after running the engine- it's supposed to close, then open a specified amount. If you don't hear anything, unplug the harness from it and measure voltage on the paired wires- it has a green pair with striped and a blue pair.

    If you have a Mastercraft or other Indmar dealer that has a diagnostic computer, it would be a good idea to have them do full diagnostics just to get a baseline since you recently bought the boat, but also because the IAC can be moved using the computer.

    I don't recommend using the Fake A Lake and it only takes a minute to connect a water source to the oil cooler. It also gives you a chance to make sure it's clear of debris.
  5. lakejimmyjon
    05-18-2017 08:58 PM
    Hey Jim
    Looking for a little help. Just acquired a 2000 PS 195 with the 310 Pedator engine. Ran it briefly on the Fake-a-lake and everything was fine. Gas gauge showed 1/2 tank and nice idle. Went on the lake yesterday and immediately noticed a very high idle (1700-1800). Tried to bump rpm's up to get it to drop down with no luck. Stayed at high idle for the short duration we were on the water. Also noticed the gas gauge pegged at empty and would not move. Can these two be related? I have done searches and it seems like I should replace the PCV and IAC as first steps. Am I headed in the right direction? Thanks in advance for any help.
  6. gfdec
    06-13-2015 04:54 PM
    Dear Jim
    I have been following your post for two years. I have a problem in my MC Maristar VRS 225 with LT-1 (I think) corvette engine.
    I am not engineer and in spain is too dificult to find someone that understands this marinized US engines.
    First of all sorry for my english.

    Reading for many months the Mastercraft forum I found your email regarding the problem of an LT1 overheat.
    The problem in my engine last year was that at idle, temp began to rise until the maximum (engine limiter appears if you try to thorttle up the engine) but in the other hand, the problem solves by itself as soon as you start riding (above idle power) the temp begin to decrease until 120 degrees or less. We changed the wáter pump but it was the same, also the impeller changed, review of hoses etc. This year as soon as we put he boat on the water the problem started another time. after 1 hour no water on the refill tank¿? but if you refill you can be 2-3mins until temp rises up to 220ºF then as soon as you throttle the engine, it begins to decrease. Normally runs on 120 (too low i think....)
    I dont know how to solve. I contacted the people of MC mainly 15 days ago and no answer recieved....

    In both cases, If you open the water refill tank a big bubble comes up and forces water out of the tank if its hot (compression checked ok) no problems with cylinder head gasket.
    I am really tired about this problem. Any solutions?

    Many thanks in advance.
  7. osbornda
    07-26-2013 10:53 PM

    I wanted to shoot you a quick message. It seems you are the M-Craft guru!

    I live in Hawaii and am very limited on wake-boat support out here. I'm having a problem with my gauges. I have an '04 X-80 STS. The speedo and both tachs are inop. The Speedo is wheel based, not a pitot tube. All grounds have been triple checked, both engine harnesses have been replaced. The ecu's are brand new on both engines and read find when plugged into a rinda system reading there outputs.

    Once in a while oil temp and water temp gauges shut off, but normally they all work. I have unplugged individual gauges and nothing changes. I have two MMDC boxes, but dont want to replace if it doesnt sound like this is the issue? Do you have any other ideas? I have read that gauges go haywire, and MMDC boxes fail... I purchased boat from Las Vegas area, so there were freezing temps in that area....but without water coming in from speedo, i wouldnt imagine that is the problem?

    What do you think?
  8. glasswater
    07-01-2013 12:42 PM
    Hey Jim,
    Please help me with my 93 Indmar corvette LT-1.
    See the forum under gen discussions with the fore firing problem... long story.
    Please call me @262-370-4005
    thank you,
    Jon DeBelak
  9. livid
    05-06-2013 03:06 PM
    Hey Jim, I saw a forum yesterday in which you replied about taking a wire straight from the battery to the crank on the ignition switch to test it. I was getting a flashing ECU when I tried to start my boat, I went back yesterday and when I turned the key to on, I got nothing, not even the flashing ECU... So I tried running a wire like you said straight from the battery to the ignition and I got the display gauge back (Still flashing ECU). This is an after market ignition that was installed by the dealer because they got it as a repo. I guess my question is what does it mean to run the wire straight from the battery to the ignition? Is that testing the igniton switch?
  10. djobarefooter
    07-17-2011 12:36 PM
    Hello again Jim, Last I contacted you was in 2009. Here I am again with another fuel pump issue. ( We have fixed our voltage issue) Yesterday we ran our 1995 LT-1 Sammy Duvall Craft with no issues and 15 gall. of gas. Pulled 4 slalom runs, put boat on lift.
    this morning, took off lift to put gas in for barefoot run , boat started, then died in approx 1 min. or so. Won't restart. Battery ok. No humm or click from fuel pump. Checking the fuses and "boxes"(relays) as we speak. We are going through a pump every other year, and only put less than 50 hours on each year. Any ideas what would cause this? Never have run the boat out of gas, but have run it 1/4 tank. Could this be the problem even though th fuel pump is not in the tank? Anything will help us !! Thank you once again in advance!!

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