Teak is not a porous wood.
Fast forward on top of the scores of threads on this site about teak re-finishing here is the gist of success for best results;
As stated two posts up, pressure wash the wood.
Sand anything you think may need sanding. Power mini-sanders...
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Last edited by waterlogged882; Yesterday, 12:25 PM.
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I can't speak for Roger.
I have found this to be beneficial for this era of hull (thread topic);
Remove the driver's seat (required) and lift out the front center section of the floor. It will lift right over the pylon. That gets you access to a hand hole that is in the underfloor...
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Give it a healthy shot of lubricant, often WD-40 in the bearing area. Give it a few minutes to penetrate. The squeal goes away. I have extended the life of many blowers like this.
I run two blowers...one in the enclosed fuel cell compartment and one under the engine cover. All wired to...
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Here is a pretty good and insightful read. The article references the PCM marinization. Same damper pulley will apply for the Indmar (same blocks).
If I were at that / this point of disassembly, I'd consider replacing the front crank oil seal. No better time.
Jeg's and Summit...
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I have seen several across the years. I have no numbers for you but the gold trim is less numerous than the red or blue flake stars. I have also seen a green 93 flake stars as well as a silver stars, then a blue flake non-stars 190. All really nice looking color schemes.
For me (my location)...Last edited by waterlogged882; 03-09-2024, 03:50 PM.
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All good and relevant information.
A point to the RWP seals...there are closed bearings in the rear of the housing and eventually they run dry and wear out. That then allows the shaft to ride hard on the seals, thus the leak.
I'd as soon replace the entire RWP than mess...
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I will say this; if you end up removing the fuel cell or if full access to the rudder and the port (four bolts) is there, remove the port and rebuild it with new seals while you are this far into the project. A really easy task. No better time.
And while you are there, no better time to...
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If the thermostat is stuck closed, that could be an issue. The photo(s) make me think a new thermostat would be a proactive step.
You can check the thermostat for open/close with a pan of boiling water but that one looks like it needs replacing, regardless.
A bad circulating...
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OEM Ford intake manifold? And if so...spacer plate? Or the often upgraded Edelbrock Performer intake? If not sure, post a photo of the engine (from front and back). I am looking for something in particular.
Check your timing also.
There are still other variants to consider....
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You're good, as long as the part fits the application. Barr is the major manufacturer of the exhaust manifold and risers.
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Damper Triangular AS4K2C - ALTDA-106 matches the Velvet Drive transmission. You did not specify your particular transmission make.
I shop different places; for this, look on ebasicpower dot com.
For the riser and manifold, I would replace both sides of each. Your call. ...
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I glanced over this thread. Looks like a pretty good read.
Looks like the 5.7 was introduced with the X23 in 2014 AD.
Disclaimer: I got nothing.
....Last edited by waterlogged882; 02-25-2024, 10:05 AM.
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So all said and done, there is the possibility that an early year 83 has the traditional wood stringers, as I mentioned earlier...a matter of timing on when it came off the assembly line, etc. Maybe mid-83 is when the change-over occurred.
I'll stop here with merely an insight of what little...
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Not that I can see, unless the engine mounts needed attention, but that would be a slightly different approach.
The only other thing would be cutting a smaller area (close to the pylon) for an inspection. That area is the lowest point in the hull where water tends to migrate.
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I can say this from hands-on experience;
This information is a general sense to your question and fact-checking may vary but I am pretty close to correct (dates, etc.), where the talking point is spot on for a general explanation. Detail would take time to articulate here.
...Last edited by waterlogged882; 02-23-2024, 06:47 AM.
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Without getting into a hit-and-miss solution here, have you replaced your OEM coil? Electronic ignition?
There are several possibilities of issues to troubleshoot.
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I know a fellow.
Be aware, the 83 is not the traditional wood floor stringers. There is a different system in the 83 underfloor.
I have always contended that if I do a post-82 year make, I'd cut it all out and put in four new Douglas Fir stringers.
Stringers require...
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Haven't we talked about this previously? Your heat soak? I presume you are using the 4160 with a hot start issue.
Couple of things come to mind if I am reading this correctly.
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