2019 X24 Audio Upgrade

[Diesel]

I also made a couple of braces for the amp rack.

[Diesel]

Here is how the front brace will fit. It will be through bolted in the fiberglass.

[Diesel]

and I got most of the stuff cleaned up in the helm for the sub box.

[Magoo]

Any updates Diesel?

[Diesel]

Was at Big Sky last week/weekend and I head to Dallas this weekend. It will be a few weeks before I am back at the lake to work on it more.

I am going to install the TWK88 and see if it sounds better. I already have a few tunes configured. If that does not pan out, I am going to drop in a Fusion RA770.

[eecyclone]

I also made a couple of braces for the amp rack.

What are the braces for? Just to supplement the factory amp rack mounting?

[Diesel]

What are the braces for? Just to supplement the factory amp rack mounting?

If each amp weighs 15lbs, I estimate the entire board to be ~ 70lbs. It feels like it when trying to lift it in place.

It looks like there are drywall screws holding those support tabs to the inside of the deck. I am sure they are stainless, but with that much weight I was afraid a big roller might sheer those screws. Simple piece of mind.

[Diesel]

Getting close to the end on this one. After much tuning, I've got the system sounding really good with the TWK88 and the additional power. I've determined my murphy screen source signal is noisy. Not sure if it is unique to mine or just they system itself. I've minimized it as much as I can and just going to run it this summer.

The two IB IDQ10s that replaced the Klipsch 10s are slamming with 585 watts each from the SDX6. I was totally surprised, and they are far from broken in. I expect they will get better. Unfortunately, I won't get the 12" IDMAX in the helm before I get it on the water this year. Maybe by mid-summer, or as good as the 10s sound, I may just wait until next winter.

One of the first things I removed is the 100amp solenoid. The main power and ground for the murphy screen comes from house battery and is constant. I now believe MC did this to remove noise and keep your phone connected when the boat is shut down. So they had to put the solenoid in to fully shut down the system when in storage.

So it's a catch 22 - leave the solenoid and risk draining your battery if you don't turn off the master switch every night, or take out the solenoid and risk running the battery down during longer storage periods.

To solve this, I've decide to put a 30amp relay in line with the 12v+ source that feeds the murphy screen and klipsch DSP. I plan on using the activation circuit from the original solenoid so it is controlled by the main power switch. This will ensure the murphy and DSP are shut down while the main switch is off and when I am not using the boat over extended periods of time. I really don't see a need to switch the main power feed to the amps like MC did originally, but this should eliminate that small draw.

[Diesel]

Oh, and I got the battery box carpeted.

[MC25]

Looks great. What are the specs on the batteries?

[Diesel]

Looks great. What are the specs on the batteries?

Group 31 AGMs from Sams Club. I could not pass up the price and so far they have been solid.

[eecyclone]

Getting close to the end on this one. After much tuning, I've got the system sounding really good with the TWK88 and the additional power. I've determined my murphy screen source signal is noisy. Not sure if it is unique to mine or just they system itself. I've minimized it as much as I can and just going to run it this summer.

The two IB IDQ10s that replaced the Klipsch 10s are slamming with 585 watts each from the SDX6. I was totally surprised, and they are far from broken in. I expect they will get better. Unfortunately, I won't get the 12" IDMAX in the helm before I get it on the water this year. Maybe by mid-summer, or as good as the 10s sound, I may just wait until next winter.

One of the first things I removed is the 100amp solenoid. The main power and ground for the murphy screen comes from house battery and is constant. I now believe MC did this to remove noise and keep your phone connected when the boat is shut down. So they had to put the solenoid in to fully shut down the system when in storage.

So it's a catch 22 - leave the solenoid and risk draining your battery if you don't turn off the master switch every night, or take out the solenoid and risk running the battery down during longer storage periods.

To solve this, I've decide to put a 30amp relay in line with the 12v+ source that feeds the murphy screen and klipsch DSP. I plan on using the activation circuit from the original solenoid so it is controlled by the main power switch. This will ensure the murphy and DSP are shut down while the main switch is off and when I am not using the boat over extended periods of time. I really don't see a need to switch the main power feed to the amps like MC did originally, but this should eliminate that small draw.

I have not had any issues with battery drain after removing the solenoid in my XT22. It seems like the screen will auto-shutdown after the key has been off for 20-30 minutes which seems to remove even the small power draw. I don't see a drawback for removing the solenoid.

I suppose for months long (over the winter) storage, battery drain might still be an issue but most owners probably use a battery maintainer or remove batteries for that long of a duration.

[Diesel]

I have not had any issues with battery drain after removing the solenoid in my XT22. It seems like the screen will auto-shutdown after the key has been off for 20-30 minutes which seems to remove even the small power draw. I don't see a drawback for removing the solenoid.

I suppose for months long (over the winter) storage, battery drain might still be an issue but most owners probably use a battery maintainer or remove batteries for that long of a duration.

Oh good to know and thanks. I have yet to measure the draw, but plan on it next time I am at the lake. Since it shuts down after 20-30min, this should save me from having to install the relay.

[cal2vin]

Getting close to the end on this one. After much tuning, I've got the system sounding really good with the TWK88 and the additional power. I've determined my murphy screen source signal is noisy. Not sure if it is unique to mine or just they system itself. I've minimized it as much as I can and just going to run it this summer.

The two IB IDQ10s that replaced the Klipsch 10s are slamming with 585 watts each from the SDX6. I was totally surprised, and they are far from broken in. I expect they will get better. Unfortunately, I won't get the 12" IDMAX in the helm before I get it on the water this year. Maybe by mid-summer, or as good as the 10s sound, I may just wait until next winter.

One of the first things I removed is the 100amp solenoid. The main power and ground for the murphy screen comes from house battery and is constant. I now believe MC did this to remove noise and keep your phone connected when the boat is shut down. So they had to put the solenoid in to fully shut down the system when in storage.

So it's a catch 22 - leave the solenoid and risk draining your battery if you don't turn off the master switch every night, or take out the solenoid and risk running the battery down during longer storage periods.

To solve this, I've decide to put a 30amp relay in line with the 12v+ source that feeds the murphy screen and klipsch DSP. I plan on using the activation circuit from the original solenoid so it is controlled by the main power switch. This will ensure the murphy and DSP are shut down while the main switch is off and when I am not using the boat over extended periods of time. I really don't see a need to switch the main power feed to the amps like MC did originally, but this should eliminate that small draw.

I did exactly what you’re saying with the the relay in place of the solenoid. I have the amps direct to battery. Then all the other stuff that was on the solenoid is through this 60 amp relay. Seems to work perfect. I get zero noise at all, first day with it on the water yesterday. I’m contemplating a twk88 but wonder if that will introduce the noise. Really the main thing I want from the twk88 is the volume knob for master and sub control.





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[Diesel]

That looks really good and thanks for sharing! I mounted the DRC-205 just below the screen on the right for adjusting the levels. I do find myself just tapping the bar on the MC screen most frequently to adjust the volume and zone levels.