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  #11  
Old 08-30-2019, 12:08 PM
heybartman heybartman is offline
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Boat: 1995 Prostar 190, LT1
Location: Northeast
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Sorry, just getting back to this. Not sure what you mean by "I smell salt"? Do you mean salt in the system? If so, it's a fresh water boat that i believe has never seen salt water, at least not in the last 8 years since I have had it.

Thanks for the thoughts and questions. I judged it as having plenty of fresh water circulation by the flow out of the exhaust manifolds looking like it has always looked, but I don't know how to measure the actual water flow.

I can't find any leaks in hoses, gaskets, heat exchanger (just had this all disassembled and it is clean and fluid is running freely when disassembled), etc. Any suggestions on how to check the flow of the antifreeze and water while the system is fully assembled and running?
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2019, 12:27 PM
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Shaun R Shaun R is online now
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Do you need a closed cooling system? If not try removing it and running the boat without one. The LT1 was known for running really hot due to the reverse flow heads and the heat exchanger may not be enough to keep the system happy. I had the standard cooling system on my old LT1 Prostar and made sure to put fresh thermostats in it at purchase, motor always stayed right around the 160-170 range.

Also, may want to consider removing the exhaust risers and making sure they are not clogged up. Boat could have been used in salt before and that could be causing flow issues. The heat exchanger system could be doing its job but that wouldn't matter if you could not get sufficient water flow through the exchanger. If that's the case running some salt away through the system could clear things up.
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2019, 03:35 PM
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etduc etduc is offline
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I suspect, a corroded heat exhaust. Preventing proper heat transfer. Closed loop, is to increase service life. The heat exchange is considered, sacrificial, cheaper to replace. They have to be service, but eventually replaced.

So i would look there.
http://www.orcamarine.com/faq_and_tips.html#why1
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2019, 03:18 PM
heybartman heybartman is offline
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Join Date: May 2018
Boat: 1995 Prostar 190, LT1
Location: Northeast
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Back at it - seems the water pump isn't pumping

So I had some time to get back on this and I tested each link in the cooling system that I could by disconnecting hoses and running water directly through each section
- Plenty of water coming out of the impeller pump
- No obstruction at the Trans cooler, plenty of water flow through it
- No obstruction in the heat exchanger for either the fresh water flow or the antifreeze
- No obstruction through the risers - easy waterflow through the risers and out of the exhaust
- Took the plate off the front of the pump and it spins with the engine so antifreeze should be circulating through the engine

So I ran the boat again without the thermostat installed and watched the heat rise pretty quickly with lots of water flow through the system. But the hoses which are supposed to circulate antifreeze from the pump through the heat exhcanger were not heating up at all.

What do I do next? Why would antifreeze not be circulating through the block? Never had this problem before, always cooled very well and consistently.

Also, I keep hearing that I have 2 thermostats. Is that true for closed cooling or just for the standard cooling?

Thanks for any help!
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Last edited by heybartman; 09-22-2019 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Updated Info
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  #15  
Old 09-22-2019, 09:53 PM
MBrandt-TT MBrandt-TT is offline
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Boat: '95 PS 190
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It's probably the water pump. Good thing is since antifreeze runs through the block you can buy one from the auto parts store and not worry about getting the more expensive marine version.
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  #16  
Old 09-23-2019, 04:57 AM
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Shaun R Shaun R is online now
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You sure there isn’t any air in the system? I would also look into changing the steam lines to the front of the heads to make sure that isn’t causing any issues. Links in this forum on how to do so.
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  #17  
Old 09-23-2019, 08:58 AM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Can you test the electric water pump?
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  #18  
Old 09-23-2019, 09:13 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski-me View Post
Can you test the electric water pump?

There exist electric water pumps but the one pictured is just driven by a shaft from behind instead of a belt from in front like on a 350.

The electric conversions you remove that front plate, remove the impeller and shaft and install a motorized pump right into the face of it.

Might not be a bad plan to convert it to electric on a closed cooling system boat because you should have plenty of cool water going through the heat exchanger.

The steam pipe routing in theory should be less of an issue on a boat that has closed cooling because it should be A- pressurized and B- running coolant.

You might need to pressure test your system, and you might need to check that the cap is sealing. Either of those can let the antifreeze boil - which is what happens in an LT-1 when they have the normal routing from a car.
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2019, 09:27 AM
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Shaun R Shaun R is online now
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Move the vents to the front could help if there is any air trapped in the heads which would cause these types of heating issues. The auto version of the LT1 has a screw on the water pump to make sure all of the air was out of the system. I do not have my LT1 Prostar anymore but here is an example from my LT4.
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