Oxidation options other than wet sanding.

[bturner2]

I've used both before. Works good for a good result, not exceptional like sanding and buffing as outlined. If good is good enough this is a very acceptable solution.....

[waterlogged882]

The bottom line is this; if a rubbing compound can cut through the oxidation to clean gel, all the better. If not, the oxidation will re-appear sooner than later.

Wet sanding will get through the oxidation to clean gel. Keep it waxed and out of the sun as much as possible and the clean gel will shine for a long time.

I have worked on boats and found the gel oxidized through the gel layer. Too little too late. Others will come to life with effort.

Your mileage may vary.

.

[88 PS190]

One other thing to note is that I'm doing all this with foam pads and a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital buffer. I know a lot of guys will say you need to use a rotary buffer (which I also own and having worked in body shop know how to use) but that's absolutely not true. With the right pad set....

How do you like the 7424?

I have a Milwaukee 7/9" rotary but it is pretty heavy and overkill for spreading wax and light polishing work.

Do you ever wish it was smaller for doing detail work? Or is the size overall useful?

[bturner2]

I love my Porter Cable and it's very seldom that I ever have to use a rotary. It's very light and you have the option to remove the pad and attach a 3.5" backing plate if you need to go smaller. They also have a soft brush head that Sodar on TT has done a complete write up on how to use this tool for vinyl interiors.

That said as you can see from the posts I've made in this thread I'm no stranger to blocking and I actually prefer blocking to using a course compound. For me I have more control wet sanding and less risk of cutting through an edge accidentally. Then again if you've ever blocked out a couple cars you know how much practice blocking you'll get doing just one. I've also found gel coat to be much more forgiving than paint which is a bonus when sanding.

A buddy of mine bought a Flex from Auto Geek that I've used and I will say it's smooth and quieter but I'm so used to my Porter Cable that I doubt I'd switch even if it went belly up tomorrow (which it's showing no indications of doing). Also I'm used to the 90 degree handle and the Flex makes you reach over the pad which just seems unnatural to me.

[wilkiesc]

In between wet sands which I try to avoid given age of my boat, I use "Mary Kate's on and off". Stuff is magic but also very abrasive to anything not fiberglass including trailer, rubber and skin. Give it a look

[88 PS190]

In between wet sands which I try to avoid given age of my boat, I use "Mary Kate's on and off". Stuff is magic but also very abrasive to anything not fiberglass including trailer, rubber and skin. Give it a look

I mean the stuff isn't abrasive at all - its just straight up Acid.

For the same reason that people will use straight Vinegar to clean water spots any Acid will clean fiberglass of scum and mineral staining. It will also eat pretty much anything that's not.

Marykate appears to be about 40% by weight of Acid in about 60% water with a small amount of surfactant. It costs ~20-30$/Gallon. Muriatic acid diluted to roughly the same concentration is available at your local hardware store for <6$/Gallon - used to prep concrete for staining, or to acidify your swimming pool.

Point being - you pay a lot of money for anything labelled hull cleaner.


Good detail on that porter cable - the 3.5" pad might have sold me, I've been looking for a pneumatic because I store on the lift and I'd love to run some air hoses down to a pony tank on the dock as opposed to running electrical to me standing on my lift.

[johnye75]

I just picked up 08 X1, with heave oxidation at the transom, it is red, and now white haze all over it. I was looking up special products to buy, but I had in my garage Meguires ultimate compound that I used on my car. I tried it in one spot, and took it right off, looks like new now. This product does not remove much material, super safe, and it works, I will post pictures later, but in my area it will rain for the next 5-6 days, so I won't have before/after pics for some time.

[waterlogged882]

I just picked up 08 X1, with heave oxidation at the transom, it is red, and now white haze all over it. I was looking up special products to buy, but I had in my garage Meguires ultimate compound that I used on my car. I tried it in one spot, and took it right off, looks like new now. This product does not remove much material, super safe, and it works, I will post pictures later, but in my area it will rain for the next 5-6 days, so I won't have before/after pics for some time.

Gel will shine for a little while. Until you get down to clean gel (removing the oxidized surface), the oxidation will reappear. It's not really gone unless it wasn't in bad shape to begin.

.

[bturner2]

Or buy a big tub of that product and be prepared to do it over and over and over and over and over....