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Old 06-14-2021, 02:05 PM
RobertTriv RobertTriv is offline
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Trailer brakes overheating issues

Hoping somebody can give me some insight on what to try next. So basically driving on flat ground or uphill the brakes are fine, might have some warmth to them but thats about it. Going downhill though the brakes get hot, and to go to my local lake I go up and then down a big pass so the entire drive is a big hill. The brakes on the drivers side seem to be getting significantly hotter then the passenger side.I pulled the brakes off greased the pins and cleaned everything up. The Calliper seems to be moving freely and the piston does too on both wheels. I changed the shock and push rod inside the surge brake system thinking maybe going downhill it was pushing against the truck more then it should. Still doing it. The only thing I notice is that the left side is where the brake fluid comes to first and then goes to the passenger side, I couldn't see why that would matter though. Any insight would be appreciated as im cooking my brakes every time I pull the boat which is at least once a week.
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:20 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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It’s a characteristic of surge brakes. There ain’t much that you can do about it to the best of my knowledge-if anyone knows better, I’d love to hear about it also.
The problem is that anytime the boat is pushing on the truck, it’ll be pushing the trailer master cylinder and applying the brakes. This normally happens when the truck hits its brakes, but it also happens on downhills when engine braking is occurring - i.e. when you have your foot off the throttle. You can try shifting into neutral on downhills and using the brakes too slow down, but that hasn’t been real successful for me.
The only real solution i know of is going to electric or electric/hydraulic braking.
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Old 06-14-2021, 03:57 PM
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djyas djyas is offline
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I feel for ya. Surge brakes are an imperfect tool.

We have to get up and over Mt Hood here at 6k+ft to get to Lake Billy Chinook. You may be doing all this already but what I do is load up the brakes right before cresting hills as I put it in 4th gear and use compression braking only. I donít take my foot all the way off the gas as I want to keep the surge brakes just lightly engaged the whole way down. I never use the actual truck brakes going downhill if I can avoid it.

I got one of those infrared temp guns and this approach keeps the brakes under 300 degrees.

The left right discrepancy makes no sense to me though? Could the fluid be low or the lines need more bleeding?


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Old 06-14-2021, 04:17 PM
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ValveCoverGasket ValveCoverGasket is offline
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needing a better bleed was the first thing that came to my mind for the left/right.
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Old 06-14-2021, 04:20 PM
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djyas djyas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
needing a better bleed was the first thing that came to my mind for the left/right.




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Old 06-14-2021, 08:03 PM
RobertTriv RobertTriv is offline
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Thanks for the input guys, I tried bleeding the brakes just now and got maybe the slightest bubble out of one calliper but thats about it, otherwise just straight oil
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Old 06-14-2021, 08:14 PM
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djyas djyas is offline
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Maybe the one bubble gone will help? I would think even a couple millimeters of extra travel would matter to syncing up the two sides perfectly.

If itís not that Iím out of ideas?


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Old 06-14-2021, 11:25 PM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Get a lockout for down hill runs if if your vehicle has enough breaking power... otherwise go electric.

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Old 06-14-2021, 11:53 PM
RobertTriv RobertTriv is offline
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Get a lockout for down hill runs if if your vehicle has enough breaking power... otherwise go electric.

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Hopefully it doesnt come down to that but maybe it will..
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:01 AM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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My brakes lock come down driveway so I use this..

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