All new RV anti-freeze has been reformulated to not corrode aluminum...at least that's what they claim on their websites.
Winterization of an LT1 - Checklist
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Jake,
Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...
I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???
A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.
Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...
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Originally posted by Rockman View PostJake,
Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...
I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???
A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.
Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...
Too many friends with boats have to replace water pumps in spring 'cuz bearing was weeping - All it takes is a little water in the right place - especially if the boat will be stored outside..sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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Originally posted by jakethebt View PostEverything that I can find say 20w50.
Oil was about the last thing I figured we would be talking about after posting the winterization list... I guess you guys think the tasks, order, etc are ok?2003 ProStar 197, MCX and Powerslot.
"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty" - Thomas Jefferson
"The one who follows the crowd will usually get no further than the crowd. The one who walks alone is likely to find themselves in places no one has ever been before." - Albert Einstein
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Few comments:
Don't fog thru the intake on a dry intake engine like the LT-1. If you must fog it, pull the sparkplugs and give each hole a shot and then crank the engine a couple times. I wouldn't bother fogging it.
Personally I'd run the fuel low and then Stabilize what's left and run the engine to get the stabilized fuel thru the system. Non metallic fuel tanks I've never had condensation problems (sleds, boats, bikes, even in the moist northwest and midwest). No sense in having 30 gal of old boat gas to start the year out on.
Engine oil, biggest debate ever, but I've used 15W40 diesel oil for years. Cheaper than synthetic racing oil.
Whether you antifreeze the engine or not (I vote not), I'd drain everything first. Hoses, r/w pump, exh manifolds, block drains (1 knock sensor, 1 petcock,take the petcock out, don't just open it), heater, blow out and definately add some AF to it, shower, cant really blow out the pump, but I haven't had one freeze and break by just running it dry and disconnecting the hoses and draining them.
You'd be surprised the amount of rust that comes out of the manifolds and possibly sand out of the block drains. If you get a solid stream out of each block drain for 20-30 sec?? it's drained. 50/50 on whether to just leave all the plugs out of the engine for the winter. Used to do that to allow it to dry out, but now I just button it back up right away.
I also used to change the fuel filters, my PS LT-1 had 2. 1 by the engine and one on top of the tank, in the spring incase any fuel sat and gummed them up, but that was prolly just my OCD kicking in.'06 X2 MCX
"I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN
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Thanks for the positive feedback.
After doing a bit more research, it appears that Indmar has changed their position on fogging on the LT1. The LT1 is considered a dry intake, I believe because it is multi port fuel injected. If it were a throttle body fuel injected, it would considered wet. The most recent info from Indmar, per Vince at SkiDIM, is that you only fog through the LT1 by removing the spark plugs and spraying directly in the cylinder.
I have updated the checklist to reflect this new information. So if you downloaded it already, you might want to do so again.
Additionally, I am still checking into the RV anti-freeze. According to Vince at SkiDIM, they use RV anti-freeze and have for years. I have come to find out that there are two types, ethanol and proplyene glycol. I was thinking that Vince was going to say he used the newer proplyene glycol, but NO, they use the ethanol. I also have a call into Indmar to see what their most recent position is. I will update the lists again once I have the info.
Also of note, after talking to several marinas, most of them are now using the antifreeze method instead of dry blocking. They say their customers like it better. Instead of having to have customers come back in the spring to re-install their plugs, the customer can just put the boat in the water and start it up. Interesting enough, they use to charge $70 in the fall and $70 in the spring, many of the charge $150 in the fall now. None of them seem to know anything about using or not using RV antifreeze in Al heads. They all seem to use it, only SkiDIM knew which type (ethanol).sigpic1996 Prostar 205 LT-1
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Pram - is that the 1st time you've done it that way? If you've done it in previous years, I wouldn't worry about it. I think to clear it out, you might need to let it run more than just on the hose. To truly clear it out, you'd need to vary the throttle from idle to almost full to make sure it all flushes through...
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nope, first time that I have done this. I bought the boat only last year and had it winterized at the dealer in Redding. I always fogged my last one, but it was a carb, not injected
So I guess I need to put it all back together and take it back to the lake
well, maybe this will make me go for one last ski then this year :PI live in my own little world. But it's OK - They know me heresigpic
MONKEY FACE
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Originally posted by pram View Postnope, first time that I have done this. I bought the boat only last year and had it winterized at the dealer in Redding. I always fogged my last one, but it was a carb, not injected
So I guess I need to put it all back together and take it back to the lake
well, maybe this will make me go for one last ski then this year :P
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