You should try to re-tap the threads of the grease port before replacing it. If the original hole size is not repairable then I'd look in to going up one size in grease fitting.
Rudder Seal
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Originally posted by ZachDaddy View PostOh and I bought a tube of corrosion preventing marine grease and filled my rudder box full this weekend.
Stopped my water leak that had been driving my MCOCD into a full facial twitch.
09 x2, MCX.
Sent from my iPad 2 3G using TapatalkLast edited by Kell; 07-02-2013, 01:34 AM.09 X2, MCX 350, VDig, PP, Heater, Shower, Bow Filler Cushin, Bimini, Wake Plate, 2 Tower Speakers w/Forward integrated docking lights, Tandom Low Profile Trailer
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Kell, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you look down at the steering cable near where it attaches to the rudder arm. You will see the cable going in and out of that bracket. Grease the part that goes in and out. We just paint on marine grease with a brush!
I will be up on Friday! You up there?
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Thanks S2S, I'll give that a try. The cable that attaches to the rudder arm looks clean, no rust or grease residue, so it prob needs some fresh grease. I'll do that Tuesday. Yes, we are headed up to PL wed through Sunday. So looking forward to it.
Sent from my iPad 2 3G using Tapatalk09 X2, MCX 350, VDig, PP, Heater, Shower, Bow Filler Cushin, Bimini, Wake Plate, 2 Tower Speakers w/Forward integrated docking lights, Tandom Low Profile Trailer
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This thread was helpful - as usual on this board.
Had plenty of water coming into my 08 X-35 driving me nuts. Same rudder seal as up thread (OJ Props). Only takes about 15mins to pop the old seal out and put a new one in which I got from skidim:
Same seal as the drive shaft uses which is nice - had one in the basement.
Noticed that there was zero grease in the rudder box when I opened it up - clearly many owners aren't greasing these regularly. The seal was torn up pretty good too.
Good tip up thread about the seal puller. $13 saved lots of time, the seal is in there pretty good.
Also, don't assume the rudder is held tight by the bolt on the arm. As soon as I pulled the pin the rudder fell right out - the bolt was not tight!. Good thing the father in law was paying attention and caught it.
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just looking to confirm if this is the same seal that goes into the rudder under part#200153. I spoke to my dealer, they advised me that I would have to get the OJ 2080B, which replaces the whole sleeve, including the seal.
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Originally posted by Proedge View Postjust looking to confirm if this is the same seal that goes into the rudder under part#200153. I spoke to my dealer, they advised me that I would have to get the OJ 2080B, which replaces the whole sleeve, including the seal.
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Originally posted by mrm2083 View PostInterested in this as well. Is it possible to press it in with the port still on the boat? I have to do it on my boat but haven’t wanted to deal with removing the 5200 and shipping to OJ
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My shop did the work last week described in this thread due to a lot of play in the rudder, suspecting water leak from it. I put the boat in yesterday and now it pulls hard to the left if I let go of the wheel at around 30 mph. Anyone experience this? Also, I’m not sure the leak was fixed as my bilge pump is coming on every 22 minutes for 1 minute running time.
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Originally posted by flyauburn View PostMy shop did the work last week described in this thread due to a lot of play in the rudder, suspecting water leak from it. I put the boat in yesterday and now it pulls hard to the left if I let go of the wheel at around 30 mph. Anyone experience this? Also, I’m not sure the leak was fixed as my bilge pump is coming on every 22 minutes for 1 minute running time.
Call the shop and tell them about this.
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