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Old 06-25-2019, 06:37 PM
Ducky Ducky is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Boat: 1981 Blue Stars & Stripes
Location: Mountain West
Posts: 4
Rudder/Tiller Arm for 1981 S&S

Hey there - I am new here, so forgive me if this has already been asked but I cannot find it anywhere. I just got my 1981 S&S out for the season and found that the steering/rudder/tiller arm (I have heard it called all three) is broken. I am not sure if any of these are the right terms, but I am in reference to the brass piece that connects the steering cable and the rudder itself under the fuel tank. When I have searched for the part, I am getting multiple different listings but the lengths are varying between 5.5 inches and 8.5 inches, all saying they will fit the 1981 S&S. As all or the parts are still original on it, does anyone know what the original length was for this part? I could get it out of storage, remove the floorboard, pull the part and just measure it, but I am hoping to get the new part so I can just do it all at once. Any help you can provide would be great!

Thanks for reading!
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Old 06-25-2019, 06:46 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Boat: 93 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky View Post
Hey there - I am new here, so forgive me if this has already been asked but I cannot find it anywhere. I just got my 1981 S&S out for the season and found that the steering/rudder/tiller arm (I have heard it called all three) is broken. I am not sure if any of these are the right terms, but I am in reference to the brass piece that connects the steering cable and the rudder itself under the fuel tank. When I have searched for the part, I am getting multiple different listings but the lengths are varying between 5.5 inches and 8.5 inches, all saying they will fit the 1981 S&S. As all or the parts are still original on it, does anyone know what the original length was for this part? I could get it out of storage, remove the floorboard, pull the part and just measure it, but I am hoping to get the new part so I can just do it all at once. Any help you can provide would be great!

Thanks for reading!
Show me links where you see parts. Last one I rebuilt had a shorter tiller arm, but short is relative.

The arm is fastened to the rudder stem with a threaded bolt and a lock nut. Once the nut is off, you still have to thread the bolt out. It does not come out freely as one would expect.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 06-25-2019 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 06-25-2019, 08:22 PM
Ducky Ducky is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Boat: 1981 Blue Stars & Stripes
Location: Mountain West
Posts: 4
Thanks for the quick reply and insight Waterlogged! Here are some of the different parts I found, most of which said they would fit or were compatible.

https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/ca...9&q=rudder+arm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTERCRAFT...5.c10#viTabs_0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MC-20-0800-...5.c10#viTabs_0

https://www.ebay.com/i/163277912445?chn=ps

https://www.ebay.com/i/143281757179?chn=ps
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2019, 08:38 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Boat: 93 190
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Originally Posted by Ducky View Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTERCRAFT...5.c10#viTabs_0

or

https://www.ebay.com/i/143281757179?chn=ps

The others are not compatible in one way or the other.

Without seeing your boat part for comparison, there lies a slight chance these would not work.....but I say they will. 98%

In the photograph I posted, there is a key-way hidden by the cotter pin. I'll go as much as 99%....

For your 81, you'll need stringers sooner than later. The second photo I posted is also what new stringer(s) install should look like with the nice fillets along the hull.

While you have the fuel cell moved about (no need to remove unless you want to) I'd drop the rudder and rebuild the rudder box with new seals. Easy and no better time to do it. Re-seal the rudder box to the hull with 100% silicone. Forget the 3M goop.

Loosen the clamps on the filler neck hose and rotate the fuel cell on that axis. Saves a lot of headache and time to not have to remove. Plenty of room to work.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 06-25-2019 at 08:57 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2019, 10:36 PM
Ducky Ducky is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Boat: 1981 Blue Stars & Stripes
Location: Mountain West
Posts: 4
Thanks Waterlogged - I appreciate the additional information and I will let you know how it turns out.
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2019, 12:23 AM
Ducky Ducky is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Boat: 1981 Blue Stars & Stripes
Location: Mountain West
Posts: 4
With your insight, I replaced the part this evening - Thank you so much! Here is a picture of the part that I replaced showing where it broke in case you were curious.


As a side note, as I was rotating the fuel tank I figured I may replace the fuel line in the near future since it is original as well. Any idea what the inside diameter would be as all the new ones appear to be A1 with either 3/8" or 5/16"
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:55 AM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky View Post
With your insight, I replaced the part this evening - Thank you so much! Here is a picture of the part that I replaced showing where it broke in case you were curious.


As a side note, as I was rotating the fuel tank I figured I may replace the fuel line in the near future since it is original as well. Any idea what the inside diameter would be as all the new ones appear to be A1 with either 3/8" or 5/16"
Glad it worked out for you.

I use 3/8" ID for most applications. You will need to clamp the hose at each end regardless, so the ID is somewhat irrelevant (generally speaking). I am pretty sure the 3/8" is correct.

Go ahead and cut the old hose. It is hardened and stuck to barbed connections on each end. Don't even fool with trying to take it off properly, etc.

I was indeed curious of where the arm broke. Thank you for the photograph.

Hopefully you still have the metal line going from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Be very careful not to spring that line if you go there. I don't see any need to at this point.

If you ever have to remove the metal line always loosen the carb and lift the carb from the line. Do not try and pry the line from under the connection. There is a leak waiting to happen upon reassembly. Same for putting it back in. Install the line then set the carb down on top of it.

Best luck and enjoy the summer.

.
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