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Old 05-11-2021, 10:57 AM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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1985 Skier Alternator

All of last year my gauge read far below proper running voltage. Steady pass digital module also read a consistent 11.8-12.2 ish volts. I figured something was wrong on my electrical system but I honestly never put a multimeter on the alternator, should have to confirm. I can hear the tone of the blower motor drop every time I flick on an accessory so pretty much figured my alternator was toast. Had my battery load tested and it seems to be fine, couple years old. Auto shop couldn’t understand how to hook up my alternator to their bench so basically they were useless. So since my battery seems to be fine, it makes sense to me that I need to replace the alt to resolve my low voltage issues.

Here is my current alternator, I definitely pulled off more than one wire when I removed it from the FEAD, is this still considered a one-wire alternator? I assume one wire refers to the number of output wires but I guess that’s why I’m here asking.

The alternator I think I need on replacement is the DB Electrical ADR0334, can someone confirm?

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...n-engines.html




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Old 05-11-2021, 11:26 AM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huckelfin View Post
...Here is my current alternator, I definitely pulled off more than one wire when I removed it from the FEAD, is this still considered a one-wire alternator?

Yes sort of. That is an older style with the voltage regulator enclosed and the the ground wire attached. The newer style single wire alternator has one output wire to the engine breaker. The single wire grounds itself to the bracket / engine block. The exciter is built into the new style and is triggered by a certain RPM and greater.

I assume one wire refers to the number of output wires but I guess that’s why I’m here asking.

The alternator I think I need on replacement is the DB Electrical ADR0334, can someone confirm?

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...n-engines.html

Confirmed correct for the 351W engine. Part number ADR0334 - 105A output.
Have you converted to electronic ignition? It makes a difference (yes or no?) as to the wiring installation. Nothing major but you want it correct. With EI, the ballast resistor is bypassed or jumped. I use the resistor as a jumper (all connections onto one post) and move on.

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Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-11-2021 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 05-11-2021, 12:58 PM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
Have you converted to electronic ignition? It makes a difference (yes or no?) as to the wiring installation. Nothing major but you want it correct. With EI, the ballast resistor is bypassed or jumped. I use the resistor as a jumper (all connections onto one post) and move on.

.
It is EI but I did not complete this work. Ballast resistor is not used at all from what I can tell. I'm currently kicking myself for not taking pictures of how it was installed, all the wires were not headed to a single post.
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Old 05-11-2021, 01:10 PM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by Huckelfin View Post
It is EI but I did not complete this work. Ballast resistor is not used at all from what I can tell. I'm currently kicking myself for not taking pictures of how it was installed, all the wires were not headed to a single post.
It could have been that there was a jumper wire from post to post. Either configuration serves the same purpose.

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Old 05-11-2021, 03:15 PM
jpwhit jpwhit is offline
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I wouldn't assume the alternator is the problem without testing it. You can test it on the boat by checking the voltage output right at the alternator. From the symptoms you describe it just as likely to be a bad ground strap or bad power lead. I would check the output voltage of both the alternator and the battery both at idle and at 2000 rpm. If they aren't pretty close to the same in both cases, you have a poor connection somewhere. Check the battery voltage on the actual terminals of the battery. Not on the battery clamps.
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Old 05-11-2021, 03:33 PM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by jpwhit View Post
I wouldn't assume the alternator is the problem without testing it. You can test it on the boat by checking the voltage output right at the alternator. From the symptoms you describe it just as likely to be a bad ground strap or bad power lead. I would check the output voltage of both the alternator and the battery both at idle and at 2000 rpm. If they aren't pretty close to the same in both cases, you have a poor connection somewhere. Check the battery voltage on the actual terminals of the battery. Not on the battery clamps.
^ ^ this

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Old 05-11-2021, 10:14 PM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
^ ^ this

.
Honestly just hoping I can get away with getting a new alternator and calling it a day, but things rarely go this easily, you'd think I would know this by now. All of the main heavy gauge wiring was replaced last year at least.

New plan of action is once I fire it up for the first time this year, as it warms up on the hose, I will check alternator output while running, voltage at the battery, easy enough. From there if the voltage is okay, I will likely proceed to removing all the ground connections behind the dash, installing a proper ground strip with a clean homerun ground wire back to the battery, and all new connection points. Will measure voltage drop across important components like the key-on switch and other components. Hopefully once that is finished, I will have found my issue.

If problems continue from there, will likely need more ideas, most likely go forward with removing the daisy chained hot wires and doing the same thing with homerun back to key switch.

Thanks guys.
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:23 PM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huckelfin View Post
Honestly just hoping I can get away with getting a new alternator and calling it a day, but things rarely go this easily, you'd think I would know this by now. All of the main heavy gauge wiring was replaced last year at least.

New plan of action is once I fire it up for the first time this year, as it warms up on the hose, I will check alternator output while running, voltage at the battery, easy enough. From there if the voltage is okay, I will likely proceed to removing all the ground connections behind the dash, installing a proper ground strip with a clean homerun ground wire back to the battery, and all new connection points. Will measure voltage drop across important components like the key-on switch and other components. Hopefully once that is finished, I will have found my issue.

If problems continue from there, will likely need more ideas, most likely go forward with removing the daisy chained hot wires and doing the same thing with homerun back to key switch.

Thanks guys.
You're on the right track but....
I'd clean all four battery cable ends and see what you have.

Behind the dash is not a primary focus, although your plan is spot on.

I will say this; when you switch the blower on, it will draw amps away from the system and fluctuate as you described. Perfectly normal.

A new alternator doesn't hurt anything...proactive maintenance...

.
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:37 PM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
You're on the right track but....
I'd clean all four battery cable ends and see what you have.

Behind the dash is not a primary focus, although your plan is spot on.

I will say this; when you switch the blower on, it will draw amps away from the system and fluctuate as you described. Perfectly normal.

A new alternator doesn't hurt anything...proactive maintenance...

.
Okay I will start with that.

The blower is really just the reason that I know my electrical system does not seem up to par. Because its always running, I can hear it reduce its tone with every accessory I flick on, it doesn't really fluctuate, it simply stays low and goes lower like it cannot keep up. This is why I'm questioning the alternator so much.
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:44 PM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huckelfin View Post
Okay I will start with that.

The blower is really just the reason that I know my electrical system does not seem up to par. Because its always running, I can hear it reduce its tone with every accessory I flick on, it doesn't really fluctuate, it simply stays low and goes lower like it cannot keep up. This is why I'm questioning the alternator so much.
I like new alternators, regardless. They are under US $75.00.

Don't forget the 12GA wire from the alternator to the starter relay and the short 2AWG cable from the relay to the starter solenoid. Check them. If you put on a new 105A alternator, upgrade the 12GA to 10GA. Some folks go 8GAG but I typically install 10GA.

You are asking the right questions. Patience.

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