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  #1  
Old 06-12-2019, 09:58 AM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Troubles starting boat after being in water a while

I wanted to get some opinions on this from others. After some time out on the boat, I sometimes have issues getting the boat started up again. It happened this past weekend. When I try to start up the boat, I get the rapid clicking sound. I am able to get boat started up only if I disconnect everything from the battery except the larger engine wires. The battery was new last year on a floating charger all winter. It also did it last year when I bought the battery brand new.

After I disconnect everything, the boat does start up but it's like the battery is a bit drained.

I would like to add that I replaced the Ignition Module and distributor cap about a year ago.

Last edited by jharmon203; 06-12-2019 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:36 PM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is offline
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Could probably take the battery to go get tested. It is possible it's not having the output it should have. I would assume last year when you got it that it was working with no issues. Other than that I would say check your battery connections to make sure they are all secure and clean.
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:49 PM
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lakedrum03 lakedrum03 is offline
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Do you have a master switch? You have something draining the battery. probably the radio is possibly corroded connections.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:49 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakedrum03 View Post
Do you have a master switch? You have something draining the battery. probably the radio is possibly corroded connections.
No master switch. However, I am starting to think about adding a second battery with a switch due to this issue.

I don't see any corroded connections at the battery, but perhaps down the line somewhere.
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:19 PM
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lakedrum03 lakedrum03 is offline
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Master switch is huge, in my opinion.
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:14 PM
N4THERIDE N4THERIDE is offline
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I知 having the same problem. I have two batteries and a perko switch. Still will get the clicking sound when trying to crank or it acts like the batteries are dead. Which they are not. Gonna check the ignition switch and the main wires that go to the starter. I知 thinking the wires are corroded. I知 not sure. I値l let you know what I find.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:14 PM
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gwozhog gwozhog is offline
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put a volt meter on the battery. if it drops below 10.8 volts when cranking your battery is trash
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:48 AM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...t=dual+battery

I found this thread when I was doing a search on dual batteries. I am wondering if the ignition coil needs replacing. Would the coil referenced in this thread work on my x-star?
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2019, 12:17 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4THERIDE View Post
I知 having the same problem. I have two batteries and a perko switch. Still will get the clicking sound when trying to crank or it acts like the batteries are dead. Which they are not. Gonna check the ignition switch and the main wires that go to the starter. I知 thinking the wires are corroded. I知 not sure. I値l let you know what I find.
There is a test anyone with a boat needs to know - "voltage drop test"

Standard voltmeter - same one you already pretty much need to own if you own a boat.

If you take and read a battery from the + to Negative post you'll read 12.whatever your charge is. If you crank you'll see the voltage dip.

But this technique can also be used from a + to a + "in parallel" with a wire for instance from the battery + to the Perko switch Input - It should read 0 volts, and when you crank it should read some very small fractional voltage such as 0.01V A

This technique can be used to test a whole circuit for instance measuring between the Battery Terminal and the signal wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid is measuring voltage drop in the battery cable terminal, the crimped connection to the battery cable, the battery cable itself, the crimped connection to the starter positive, the wire to the dash board + terminal, that crimp the eyelet to the ignition gauge, the ignition switch, the eyelet to the exciter wire, the crimp in that terminal end, the wire back to the solenoid, its crimp and again the connection to the solenoid... Phew. Or any individual connection in that entire circuit can be tested.

One probe on the battery positive post and one on the terminal itself will show you if you have a connection issue between the battery and the terminal. Clear as mud?

You need two people to do this because someone needs to crank the circuit as you read the meter.

Start by reading big circuits - the battery cable itself for instance, then read the battery back to the solenoid - if you see a big drop or even something like .1 volt troubleshoot it wiggle crimps sand connections try a bypass wire - see if you can find it.
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2019, 01:13 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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both these boats are early 2000's. It is likely that you need new cables for the battery. I would go that route if the battery checks out fine... if it is hot when it won't start and it works fine when cold then the corrosion in the wires is causing allot of resistance and as they get hotter they get more restive... You can make your own cables or buy them made to length.. make sure you run large enough copper wire to power the starter and the alternator... I ran 1/0 in mine.. 2 gauge is usually fine..
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