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  #51  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:25 PM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
Just FYI for anyone else doing this, both Hale Marine and Skidim basically said if you want to spend more money, buy the circular damper plate, but the triangular one is the same thing, just 1/2 the price.
Good to know... !

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  #52  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:43 PM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Here's link to manual... https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/...sion%20Manuals

atf on 0-ring... and section 4.3 says use loctite 574 on external part of seal and grease on the lips of seal --
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  #53  
Old 05-20-2019, 11:29 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Here's link to manual... https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/...sion%20Manuals

atf on 0-ring... and section 4.3 says use loctite 574 on external part of seal and grease on the lips of seal --
Mike, how do I access that dropbox document? I have an account but when I click on the link it says the file is not available.
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  #54  
Old 05-21-2019, 09:43 AM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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try clicking thru here

https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=59719
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  #55  
Old 05-21-2019, 10:19 AM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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That works!! Thanks Mike
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  #56  
Old 05-21-2019, 12:27 PM
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ValveCoverGasket ValveCoverGasket is online now
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threads like this continue to remind me why this place rocks.
nothing to add to the discussion other than wow... the depth of knowledge here is unreal.
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  #57  
Old 05-21-2019, 12:44 PM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
That works!! Thanks Mike
How did you lift motor? Bottle jacks? Where and how did you them...

Also, had a bit of a head scratcher on the need for loctite on the outer edge of seal (cuz I aint no trained mechanic) but I see the old loctite on the seal in the pictures of you holding seal.

Awesome pics very helpful.. this thread has lessened my fear - its not if this seal will fail its when.

I am wondering if its a pain to change rear main seal on engine while its exposed.. is it a pain to remove flywheel and access? Not to add to your work load.

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  #58  
Old 05-21-2019, 01:21 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
How did you lift motor? Bottle jacks? Where and how did you them...

Also, had a bit of a head scratcher on the need for loctite on the outer edge of seal (cuz I aint no trained mechanic) but I see the old loctite on the seal in the pictures of you holding seal.

Awesome pics very helpful.. this thread has lessened my fear - its not if this seal will fail its when.

I am wondering if its a pain to change rear main seal on engine while its exposed.. is it a pain to remove flywheel and access? Not to add to your work load.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I'm sure there is a more elegant solution to lifting the engine, but I used what I had and it works. They say it ain't stupid if it works....

I'm not sure why the Loctite either but I am going to use an anaerobic gasket sealant just to make sure. I'm also hoping I found a place down in SLC that has a replacement o-ring for the pump cover. We will see tomorrow.

I haven't pulled the damper off yet but will take pics when I do to show you what is behind it to see how easy it would be to pull the flywheel off. I'd think about replacing it if it were easy to access and it were mid-winter, but I don't have the time to be experimenting right now as I will be on the road in 2.5 weeks.

If I put everything back together and the rear seal of the engine is leaking, I'm just going to sell the boat and buy another motorcycle....
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  #59  
Old 05-21-2019, 02:12 PM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartnich View Post
I'm sure there is a more elegant solution to lifting the engine, but I used what I had and it works. They say it ain't stupid if it works....

I'm not sure why the Loctite either but I am going to use an anaerobic gasket sealant just to make sure. I'm also hoping I found a place down in SLC that has a replacement o-ring for the pump cover. We will see tomorrow.

I haven't pulled the damper off yet but will take pics when I do to show you what is behind it to see how easy it would be to pull the flywheel off. I'd think about replacing it if it were easy to access and it were mid-winter, but I don't have the time to be experimenting right now as I will be on the road in 2.5 weeks.

If I put everything back together and the rear seal of the engine is leaking, I'm just going to sell the boat and buy another motorcycle....
elegant - shmeligant - it got the job done! I believe loctite keeps seal from spinning and seals - i bet there an appropriate one for that area.


waterlogged we need you on this one!
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  #60  
Old 05-21-2019, 02:31 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
elegant - shmeligant - it got the job done! I believe loctite keeps seal from spinning and seals - i bet there an appropriate one for that area.


waterlogged we need you on this one!
This is from the Henkel website:

Gasketing Product - general purpose. Ideal for use on machined and rigid metal flanges
LOCTITEŽ 574 seals close-fitting joints between rigid metal faces and flanges. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces. It provides resistance to low pressures immediately after assembly. Typically used as a form-in-place gasket on rigid flanged connections. The nature of LOCTITE 574 reduces the migration of liquid product after application to the substrate. It has a high oil tolerance and excellent water and glycol resistance.
Ideal for use on rigid metal parts, e.g. cast iron components and pump housings
High oil resistance
Excellent water and glycol resistance
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