#61
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So... while looking over the boat closely today (can't really do anything since I'm waiting on parts) I noticed some cracks in the transmission cooling hoses. I guess that's what happens after 24 years. When looking for the leak I wiped down the hoses to see if there was any significant oil on them or the fittings, I did not see much at all.
So it could be possible that this whole tear-down was for naught. But given that the boat was only running in the driveway for a few minutes to warm up for the oil and filter change, I'm still skeptical that it all came from the hoses, but it's possible. I guess it doesn't matter at this point. I'm going down to a hose shop this week and getting new hoses as well.... |
#62
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Quote:
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205.... ![]() |
#63
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Had to do this on my vdrive this winter. New seals, new damper plate, and engine mounts. I welded up some ears that I attached to the manifold bolts to use as a secure jack point. I also used wood to block it up overnight because the bottle neck jack will drop after a few hours. Going to buy a gantry lift one of these days so I have a complete inboard repair shop. Made a little video just to Make life easier if I ever have to do it again.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qdQOHqby2WM |
#64
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Attached are a few pics. The first is of the new transmission cooler hoses I had made at the local ERIKs for a total of $23. I was told that I don't need to include any clamps on the barbed ends as it is rated for 100 PSI, but I might do it anyway.
The other two pictures are of the pump cover. After 24 years it looked like the big o-ring had flattened out. It mates to a flat surface so there needs to be at least some o-ring showing over the top of the cover surface to effectively seal. With the old o-ring, it was flat against the surface. This last pic shows the new oring in the cover. It's probably difficult to see, but it does show some o-ring above the surface All in I will have less than $150 in parts sunk into this project, assuming I don't destroy something else while re-assembling. $114 for the damper plate with 3 day delivery, $23 for the new transmission hoses, $10 for 5 ring seals from amazon, and the o-ring was given to me as the guy just said to buy him a beer sometime. The labor is the real issue. The damper plate should show up tomorrow, and that is the piece I need before I start trying to put everything back together again. I'll try have it together by the end of the weekend if I get the time. It's dumping snow here right now, so I'm certainly not missing any water time because of it |
#65
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Where did you pick up the big o ring?
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205.... ![]() |
#66
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https://www.hydrapakseals.com/storef...mmerce/home.do When you replaced your transmission lines, did you connect them dry or did you put some type of pipe dope on them? |
#67
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Replaced dry and dont overtighten. Thanks for link.
What size o ring did you buy. Thanks for a great thread. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205.... ![]() |
#68
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Attached are two more pics. The first is of the transmission screen that had accumulated 24 years worth of whatever. There are two bolts on the bottom of the transmission. Pull those, then there is a little rubber cap to pull off to access the screen. I just sprayed it off with carb cleaner. The second pic is of the flywheel. It appears that it is pretty easy to take off. Only 6 bolts. Anyone ever replace the rear seal on this engine? I wonder how hard it would be.... |
#69
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shoule be just like taking a flywheel off the automotive version - get a flywheel tooth holder and break those bolts free.
im sure there are plenty of small block rear main seal replacement walkthroughs online, but if i had the trans out id probably take the time to do that seal as well while youre in there. cheap insurance |
#70
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