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Old 07-17-2019, 09:35 PM
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Benzick Benzick is offline
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Possible Bent Strut, Need Advice

Was on the water for all of two minutes the other weekend when I'm pretty sure I hit a large stump (only going about 4MPH).

Prop was bent bad on all 4 blades, but had a local guy bend it back into shape, balanced, and tuned. (If anyone in NC needs a prop repaired, Jason @ BRP Dynamics in Greensboro does incredible work).

Got the prop back on, and in the process, noticed that the Strut seemed a bit off. Tried to turn the prop, took two hands and a lot effort to spin it about 180 degrees. (2004 XSTAR, 6.0 LQ9).

Ive had the boat about 4 years, and its always been hard to turn the prop by hand, but never this hard.

Should I just bite the bullet and order a new shaft and strut?
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:51 PM
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Lars Lars is offline
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Based on the way the shaft is going through the strut, it looks like that might be the best course of action. If you have a dial indicator you could check the straightness of the prop shaft on a bench. You'll have to research how to pull the coupler of the prop shaft off, I'm not sure how to do it on a V drive, I think you need a special tool?

Don't be too scared to replace the strut. It's a lot of putzy work, but it's not that hard. You need that 3m Marine sealant to put around the perimeter and through the bolt holes and you'll have to align the engine afterwards. On my 2004 the engine mounts seized in place so it was kind of a pain. I had to use a ratchet strap and a large pry bar to get mine to move like a half an inch.
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:39 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Yeah, I think you'll need a new strut.

Attached are instructions for aligning the engine to the new strut.

Don't use 3M 5200 on the strut - if you ever need to replace it again, you'll be cussing. The factory uses marine-grade Silicone Sealant, so should you.
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File Type: doc PROPSHAFT_ALIGNMENT-15676.doc (31.0 KB, 32 views)
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:02 AM
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Benzick Benzick is offline
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Thanks for the advice everyone! Is there any good way to check and see if the rudder and rudder box is bent?
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:28 AM
Strreamline Strreamline is offline
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You can send the shaft out to be straightened at a machine shop (i believe 0.03" is spec tolerance, maybe someone can correct me?), vs replacing it so long as it isn't worn down at the cutlass bearings or at the water seal. If there's damage there then just replace it.

As for the strut, before buying a new one it may be worth your time to try and straighten it out.

Remove the rudder and get a long bar roughly the same diameter as the drive shaft. put a pipe on that shaft for length/leverage if necessary and slowly bend the strut back into place, while checking with the driveshaft in between adjustments for positioning. It should pass through the hull as close to perfectly center as possible. Worst case scenario the strut snaps and you're back to where you started with replacement.

once its back in shape, replace the cutlass bearings, install the straightened shaft and perform an engine/transmission alignment.

**edit** Just saw it was a v-drive, no idea what the alignment procedure is for that set up, but the rest of the info should still be good.

Last edited by Strreamline; 07-18-2019 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:13 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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The rudder isn't critical - as long as the steering/rudder moves back and forth smoothly, and water isn't coming into the bilge around the rudder box, you're good to go.

You can do a quick-and-dirty check on whether the propshaft is bent by removing it, and rolling it on a smooth, flat surface (a good garage floor isn't particularly flat, but might work. A granite countertop (don't let your wife see this) might be better) and looking for any wiggle as you roll it. If you can see a wiggle, it's bent pretty bad. If you can't see a wiggle, it may still be bent out-of-spec, but you'd need a machine shop to measure it for you.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:32 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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It is highly unlikely the shaft is bent... i would be suprised... if you have it apart and have access to a nice long piece of granite you can see if there is something amiss.. or there are procedures to check it. Just buy a new strut.. and bearings

sorry for your mishap...you will need to align to the new strut when you replace it.
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:17 PM
tryathlete tryathlete is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curver900 View Post
It is highly unlikely the shaft is bent... i would be suprised... if you have it apart and have access to a nice long piece of granite you can see if there is something amiss.. or there are procedures to check it. Just buy a new strut.. and bearings

sorry for your mishap...you will need to align to the new strut when you replace it.
I think itís probably bent. With the strut bent that far, I would have someone put a dial indicator on it while it is still on the boat (lots of folks use a suction mount dial indicator) and read it at several places: middle back and behind the strut where the taper is ahead of splines (or keyway). It doesnít take much to knock em out. I do not know of many who have had luck straightening them either.

The strut; might be able to straighten that out off of the boat with some heat; maybe you can do it on the boat with the long bar but at a certain point Iím thinking you could stress the hull and get some spider cracking in the gel coat.

ARE makes a good replacement shaft if I remember correctly.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:57 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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mine was bent that far and it was fine... but your mileage may vary....I have access to a machine shop and had it checked...
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  #10  
Old 07-22-2019, 09:21 AM
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Benzick Benzick is offline
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Updated.
Ordered new shaft and strut. Iím in the process of removing the old running gear. The drive shaft nut at the coupler would not budge at all. Even using a pipe wrench with a cheater bar, it would not turn. Someone must have used red loctite on the nut (and there was no set screw on the nut, I checked).

Any advice on how to get the shaft pushed out through the trans? It is a splined shaft, and i literally have about an inch and a half before it hits the gas tank.
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