Seized ZFT3 tower

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  • Baron515
    TT Regular
    • Jun 2018
    • 33

    Seized ZFT3 tower

    Hi there, just wanted to post this incase it helps anyone and also as for some help myself.

    My 2008 X2 runs in seawater and all the steel bolts on the aluminum tower have seized up. I thought it was near impossible to get anything loose without drilling and tapping the bolts which was something I would probably screw up but I had some success.
    So my boat cover needs replacing and I thought it would be worth trying to unseize some of the bolts so I may fold the tower and get a cover that covers the whole boat to keep it nice and clean when not in use, I started at the rear feet trying to remove the bolt there, the knobs both come off but I'm left with 2 studs on each side, in which case I screw in 2 nuts and lock them together to give me something to turn. I managed to snap the stud on both sides initially as it simple would not budge and I used too much force. I decided to remove the tower feet from boat, and separated them from the tower which was quite easy hitting them with a hammer as the tower part is not threaded. With the tower feet off I tried heating, waxing, oiling, acid and every combination to try and free the stud with no luck. What finally worked was simple heating the aluminum around the stud and hitting it with a hammer all around the stud, and using an impact driver to turn the stud which eventually got them free. It was not easy but I feel so lucky I can now get the rear part of the tower folded and I just wanted to share this incase anyone thinks it's impossible.

    So the next step is the front arms of the tower in the below pic and this is where I would like some help. I'm assuming that these are also bolts that are supposed to come off with the knob? Or are they studs that slide through when the knob is removed? I haven't wanted to put too much force on them yet so thought I would ask here first.

    Click image for larger version

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  • tr6coug
    MC Devotee
    • Aug 2007
    • 1039

    #2
    The screw is supposed to come out with the knob. Can you remove the oval shaped part and pull it off the threads? Be careful not to snap the hex heads off the screws. If you can remove it, then I suggest using some of this on the threads.

    Kano Aerokroil

    Spray it on and let it sit for a day. Then put nuts on the threads and tap around them with a hammer. Then some more oil. Use 2 nuts on the thread as you described to get some leverage and try to remove it.

    If it comes out, make sure you put anti-sieze on the threads before you replace the bolt.
    '07 Navy Blue X2 MCX
    http://www.wakeblaster.com/
    Ballast Timer Reprogramming Info
    Timer Reprogramming Thread

    Comment

    • Baron515
      TT Regular
      • Jun 2018
      • 33

      #3
      Thanks for confirming that.
      The Allen keys are seized too.
      What exactly does it screw into though? Doesnt seem I would be able to heat up the thread area. Any chance someone has a picture of it opened up?

      Comment

      • Baron515
        TT Regular
        • Jun 2018
        • 33

        #4
        I got them loose!
        Now to replace them and reinstall the back legs and all should be well!
        Heat was the solution again. I heat around the area of where the threads should be and just took it slow.

        Comment

        • Elberoth
          TT Enthusiast
          • Aug 2018
          • 212

          #5
          Originally posted by Baron515 View Post
          I got them loose!
          Now to replace them and reinstall the back legs and all should be well!
          Heat was the solution again. I heat around the area of where the threads should be and just took it slow.
          Did you heat the bolt as well ?

          Comment

          • Baron515
            TT Regular
            • Jun 2018
            • 33

            #6
            Originally posted by Elberoth View Post
            Did you heat the bolt as well ?
            No, I only heat the tower to try and expand the aluminum threads but not the stud. I did also spray it with some penetrating oil when hot to try reduce the friction. I then had to reheat the aluminum and only tried to turn it when it was at its hottest, I got it to turn about an 1/8 of a turn and then I would tighten and loosen for that 1/8 turn until it felt loose and try to loosen further.

            Comment

            • Elberoth
              TT Enthusiast
              • Aug 2018
              • 212

              #7
              Thanks for the heat gun tip (I have used an electric one, made for paint removal).

              It worked beautifully, I was able to remove all seized bolts.

              Comment

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