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Old 08-28-2018, 11:19 AM
Lou Ky Lou Ky is offline
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Join Date: May 2018
Boat: X10
Location: Southeast
Posts: 4
Question for the teak experts

So, I have read many of the teak threads on the forum and I have a question particular to my platform that I cannot find the answer to. Platform is on a 2002 X10. Previous owner applied some type of polyurethane finish to the top of the platform which made it dangerously slippery. After a summer of telling every person near it to "be careful it's slippery," I stripped it with a citrus stripper. I have lightly dry hand sanded it and washed it with soap and water and a plastic bristle brush. It is pictured below as it sits now. I assume if I want it to look good, I would need to get it to a uniform color and finish before applying any of the recommended finishes - is that correct? I have seen Harold's method, but I think this platform is not even ready for step one. Based on the condition of the platform below should I use an orbital or wet sand it by hand? Any recommendations on grit would be much appreciated - or even a step by step to get to the point where I'm actually ready to start applying oil/sealer.
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Old 08-28-2018, 11:32 AM
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Mastercraftdave Mastercraftdave is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2015 X23 SS 6.2L
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 4,594
You might want to look into the Starbrite 3 step process. I have found that this method with a firm brush and light pressure wash cleans the teak up nicely.
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Old 08-28-2018, 11:36 AM
John Johnson John Johnson is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Boat: 2018 NXT22 Prior 2002 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 528
My '02 230 platform had been neglected for years when I picked it up in '12. Don't be afraid to sand it some more by hand with dry sand paper. Looks like there is still some poly on there. Then go with a finer grit until you get the level of smooth finish you want. I may be stating the obvious, but sanding isn't going to hurt anything.
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:40 PM
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etduc etduc is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: Something else, DD 2004 red/white/black
Location: "Jumpin' the shark"
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I'd hit it again with something stronger, polyurethane stripper (Home Depot, etc)

You probably, won't get all the stain out. Mainly, get the teak, uniform smooth. Do not use orbital sander! Use a vibrating sheet sander. (cost less than $30.00)

Wet Sand with 220 grit, until you get to your acceptable stopping point. Then go to finer grit.
I'd do 3 stages (220,400,600), then apply Teak oil, or home brew teak/linseed oil. Heavy, and leave in sun,all day. Then wipe off, excess. May or may not, add another heavy. (give it time, to soak in)

Wipe off dry. Then wet sand 800 grit. (This is were, I stop) Soap and water/,dry it. Rub in teak oil(or not), then rub in oil occasionally thru the season. Always oil, at end of season.

2004 Red/White/Black something or other.

Formally, 1994 RED Mastercraft 205, Chevy 5.7 TBI.
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:49 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Boat: Mastercraft, prostar 2001 205v
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,478
I had one in pretty bad shape as well.. i started out with 80 grit and a orbital to get it straightened out.. then orbital sander with 120 then to 220 that was as smooth as it needed to be used the 75/25 linseed oil/mineral spirits mixture... This makes it so it isn't too smooth and one coat every spring keeps it in superior shape...

if you start with finer paper (and you can ) it will just take longer.. but if you are not experienced with working with wood you should stick with the longer method you can do some serious damage with 80 grit if you are not careful.

Good luck!

I ended up taking my entire platform apart and re-assembling it with all new SS screws.. you may want to consider that as well.. just easier to work with it all disassembled.
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:54 PM
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Maristar210 Maristar210 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: paddle
Location: Midwest
Posts: 10,988
180 grit with an orbital (carefully) then 240 and 480. A lot of coats of oil (75/25 as mentioned above) and she'll look great.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:38 PM
Lou Ky Lou Ky is offline
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Join Date: May 2018
Boat: X10
Location: Southeast
Posts: 4
Great responses. Exactly what I was looking for. Given my inexperience, I'll try to get remaining poly off, keep at it with hand sanding and hope I can get to a point where I'm ready to add oil. Thanks guys!
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:50 PM
jkski jkski is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2008 40th Anniv. Prostar 197 MCX and Powerslot
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 2,190
FWIW....the smoother you make it the more likely it is to be slippery again.
My platform sees a lot of use and I sand it every other season with 100 grit, blow it off then apply Flood Natural stain to it(water based). It looks great and lasts all year and never gets slippery.
I can easily apply the stain in between uses by simply roughing up and worn spots(typically the edge of the platform where people slid in and out) and reapply with a brush.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:56 PM
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lakedrum03 lakedrum03 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Boat: 2003 X-Series MCX
Location: Ohio
Posts: 941
+1 on what Maristar 210 says.

Mine was in pretty bad shape. I sanded with 120 and 180 on a DA sander.
Being on a boat that's moving through the water, it's so clear. Everything falls into place in terms of what's important and what's not. - James Taylor
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Old 08-28-2018, 04:20 PM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: MasterCraft, 280 SST, 2005, Twin 375 Crusader
Location: Michigan
Posts: 636
0 sanding done on a 13 year old platform with no cleaning ever done to it. Just did a 3 step...Cleaner, Brightener, oil

Note: the first dirty picture is actually after did the cleaner. I forgot to take a before picture....between the first and second picture is just from applying the brightener.

I would scrub in some heavy cleaner then do the brightener in a couple of spots and see how it turns out with uniformity after it dries. if it sucks sand it. If it ends up looking good do the rest.
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Website: www.SteadyPass.com
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Boat: 2005 Maristar 280 SST Twin Crusader 375
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