Batteries for a big stereo setup

[lj_mastercraft]

Is your question still whether you can remove some of the 6V batteries?

You can, but you'd need to remove them in pairs, and it would cut your capacity (Ah) in half.

Alternately, you could replace all 4 of the 6v batteries with a single 12v battery

For reducing the footprint/space, I believe those are your only two options (remove all 4 and replace with a 12v, or remove a pair of them)

[MLA]

To reduce weight, its all up to you on how much you are willing to give up in engine off play time. Weight = play time.

[grantman]

I am thinking about disconnecting one pair. Which wires do I disconnect from the batteries to remove just one pair? And what would be an estimate on how long the batteries would last with the engine off?

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[lj_mastercraft]

Easiest way would appear to be removing the two batteries in the image (the two red 'x's)

That also means re-routing the wire from the bottom battery to 'stereo switch' (the blue line I drew)

Obviously by removing those batteries you'd also remove the connection between the two of them, and the connection from the top right battery to the middle left battery

[grantman]

Easiest way would appear to be removing the two batteries in the image (the two red 'x's)

That also means re-routing the wire from the bottom battery to 'stereo switch' (the blue line I drew)

Obviously by removing those batteries you'd also remove the connection between the two of them, and the connection from the top right battery to the middle left battery

Thanks for the info! Could I just replace the 6v batteries with 2 12v and run them in parallel to get the same amount of power? How does that work?

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[MLA]

Sure, but the even further drop an Ah reserve is greater then the weight saved.

[lj_mastercraft]

Grantman - go to the "Electrical" forum and find the thread I created between 30 and 60 days ago. I compare all the major marine/deep-cycle batteries, so you'll get an idea of the AH ratings you can obtain

[Beniel]

Definitely yellow top battery... and capacitors are good depending on how much of a system you have... mine is comp. grade so i have a 5-farad cap.

(2 jl 12w7s, jl 1000/1 amp, jl 300/4 amp, 4 boston pro z6 speakers, alpine ivad300 head unit, etc)

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[JimN]

Thanks for the info! Could I just replace the 6v batteries with 2 12v and run them in parallel to get the same amount of power? How does that work?

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Each manufacturer has the reserve info on the page for each battery but the fact remains-your charging system needs to be able to handle the load of multiple batteries. If you ignore that, you will have problems and it's likely that you'll be stranded at some point.

How does it work? In parallel, the voltage remains the same, assuming the batteries are electrically identical. Not close, not one new and one old, identical. If one has been fully discharged, its internal resistance will be different and the load will not be balanced. The reserve capacity of one battery is added to that of the second battery, assuming the cables won't present some resistance that could cause decreased charging voltage/current.

In series, the voltage adds, reserve remains at the average of the batteries.

The first thing I would do is check the alternator and charging lead, to make sure they're up for the task. If not, make the needed changes. If you goal is to decrease the weight of the batteries, long reserve time makes that difficult because lightweight batteries are expensive.

I just looked and high output alternators are available for far less than in the past. Used to be that the 150A models started around $500 and now, a 200A model is less than $250.

[shunra]

Dry cells that have 2250ahrs so practically 3x the standard batteries. Not cheap though

https://stingerelectronics.com/catalog/batteries/

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That battery is only 120Ah not 2250. The 2250A number is the maximum current the battery can put out for only 5 seconds and it doesn't indicate anything about the capacity of the battery. I'm sure these are good batteries and the max current spec is interesting as it indicates a low internal resistance which is good for audio applications, but the capacity is on par with most other brands. Meaning that this battery won't operate a stereo any longer than any other battery with at 120Ah rating.

[lj_mastercraft]

Here, go look at the PDF file in this post:

https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=84516

[btriantos]

That battery is only 120Ah not 2250. The 2250A number is the maximum current the battery can put out for only 5 seconds and it doesn't indicate anything about the capacity of the battery. I'm sure these are good batteries and the max current spec is interesting as it indicates a low internal resistance which is good for audio applications, but the capacity is on par with most other brands. Meaning that this battery won't operate a stereo any longer than any other battery with at 120Ah rating.

Yeah, I misread that.. it’s cold cranking amps. However, running the stereo for 45-60 mins doesn’t put a dent in the power load. They are nice... and act like caps


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[MLA]

for a house bank, CCA are like teats on a boar.

#saynotoCAPs

[btriantos]

for a house bank, CCA are like teats on a boar.

#saynotoCAPs

Agreed, but you gotta try these batts[emoji41]. They take a bit of time to recharge, but they are good for the whole day. I can listen to Music at high level, filling ballast, while only idling, showing 14v... but I have three of these


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[MLA]

Agreed, but you gotta try these batts[emoji41]. They take a bit of time to recharge, but they are good for the whole day. I can listen to Music at high level, filling ballast, while only idling, showing 14v... but I have three of these


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I dont doubt you, but an Ah is an Ah. Theres no magical way for one 120Ah battery to last longer then the other guys 120Ah battery.

A gallon is a gallon whether is water or whiskey