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  #11  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:08 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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That's why I won't use lead clamps. I always cut those off and use terminal rings.
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:30 AM
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+1 on terminal rings
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2018, 08:24 AM
waterskibrad waterskibrad is offline
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put a 12 volt light in series with the positive side of battery, if it lights with everything turned off you have a load draining the battery.
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryrobinson View Post
Thought it might be helpful for you to see what my bad connectors looked like.
You didn't write anything about regularly cleaning the cable clamps and battery posts- that's always a good way to start with this problem.

Another good idea is to stop hammering the clamps on with pliers.
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2018, 02:53 PM
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Ryrobinson Ryrobinson is offline
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Now he tells me! Lol!
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:31 AM
stig stig is offline
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I had an issue like this so I'll chime in since this thread could become a good resource.

Full battery, no loads draining it, all connections were tight and clean. Even pulled the starter solenoid off the starter and that tested ok. Found the stupid brushes in the starter were jammed up and not touching the armature.
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2018, 03:49 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2018, 04:16 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterskibrad View Post
put a 12 volt light in series with the positive side of battery, if it lights with everything turned off you have a load draining the battery.
For some reason people do not like doing diagnostics - but a voltmeter/multimeter is a must for boat owners.

You can test a connector simply by doing a voltage drop test: Turn on the blower/radio/bilge and then stick the voltmeter leads one onto the post of the battery and work the other into the wires on the other side of the terminal just work it through the insulation. A good terminal connection to the battery and the wire should read very nearly 0 on a voltmeter because the voltage is essentially the same at the terminal as it is in the wire. The larger the difference is the worse the connection between the wire and the terminal.

So Voltage drop (VD) gets tested: Terminal (VD) Clamp (VD) Wire (VD) Starter Post

Each time you leave the one lead on the battery terminal, and you move the other one down the line, from the clamp, to the wire, to the other end of the wire, to the lug on the starter, to the starter. Here's a fake result:

Terminal (.01V) Clamp (.04V) Wire (.04V) Lug (1V) Starter Post (1V)

In that example you have good connection between the terminal and the clamp, the clamp and the wire, but hmmm there's a bad voltage drop between the wire itself and the lug crimped onto it which is the same voltage drop as you're seeing at the starter - probably can save this by taking the wire and flowing some flux and solder into the lug and testing again.


Hammered clamps usually = installed upside down - the clamps have a bit of a taper just like the posts do and when flipped and torqued they don't go down nicely and strip.
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