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  #21  
Old 07-20-2021, 08:55 PM
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BROUSSARD BROUSSARD is offline
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You could go the old 2007 tournament team route and put white graphics on one side and black on the other
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2021, 08:27 PM
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brucemac brucemac is offline
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Originally Posted by BROUSSARD View Post
You could go the old 2007 tournament team route and put white graphics on one side and black on the other
Maybe, but I will more than likely keep it consistent port to starboard.

Any opinions on the pictures at the bottom of page 2? (shameless bump)
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  #23  
Old 07-22-2021, 07:46 AM
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bruce, looks well centered to me.
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  #24  
Old 07-22-2021, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bcd View Post
Does this bother you? That's as clean as you can get them with a spray bottle and rag wiping down the boat. All of the tight spaces inside and between the letters stay dirty.

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I have zero issue with this on my boat. I use a microfiber rag (Costco Brand) and you can easy shape the rage to remove the left behind residue.

What type of product are you using to clean the boat?

I recent bought some Boat Juice and have been extremely please with the product and how it holds up.
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  #25  
Old 07-22-2021, 07:47 PM
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Question on polishers. Been reading a lot, watching Youtube and scouring the TT archives, but one question I can't seem to answer is:

Can I get away with just a Rotary (Orbital) Polisher? Like the Makita 9237C for BOTH cutting (wet sand and/or wool compounding) AND polishing with foam pads? Or do I really ultimately need both a rotary and a DA tool to accomplish both jobs?

Most videos I see of the "pros" show a rotary to wet sand and compound and then finishing up with a DA and polish on a foam pad. Motivation behind the question is purely from a cost savings perspective as well as I don't believe I will be able to eliminate ghosting from decal removal with a DA. Anybody?
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