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  #431  
Old 05-30-2019, 10:52 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?
Breaker will likely never trip, unless its like less then 5A rating.

Unless there is more to your setup then posted, I read its 2 batteries wired in parallel into one, with a random breaker between them.

You measured alternator voltage on one and static battery voltage on the other. If this was with a meter, then use that meter to find where the alternator voltage stops.

Yes, a breaker can fail.
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  #432  
Old 05-31-2019, 10:12 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?
Make sure the second battery is on the ‘Load’ side of the breaker and measure continuity across its poles witg nothing else attached- should read 0 Ohms. How are the cables attached? Lead lugs with the clamps tight or only slid on and wiggled? If it has wing nuts, make sure the cable ends are clean and measure voltage without the second battery connected WITH the engine running- if you don’t see the same at both batteries, fix that.
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  #433  
Old 05-31-2019, 08:01 PM
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neil.anderson63 neil.anderson63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
I have to ask...why a breaker between the batteries? A circuit breaker I presume? I don't see that as beneficial for the intent of your setup.

From what I understand, it seems you do not have the batteries in parallel for charging and also do not have an isolation relay to separate the batteries when engine is off. The breaker does nothing for you in this scenario.

You jumped the two batteries together for a start which the jumper was acting as the DBS, thus combining the batteries.

If you do not have an isolation relay (open and close on ignition switch command) you're not isolating the start battery from the accessory battery when the ignition switch is off [and not charging (failed closed) them when the ignition switch is on run]. The ignition switch off position triggers the relay to fail open thus isolating the batteries...but you do not have this component.

If this doesn't make sense, I have misunderstood the description of your setup.

.
Batteries are in parallel. Negative's are connected and positives are split by a 40amp thermal circuit breaker. Starter battery is on the battery/load terminal, house is on the accessory terminal. Boat was configured like this when I bought it in 2012 and I figured it to be factory as it was the same way my 2005 X9 was set up.
Diagnosing the circuit breaker, I found that it isn't working as designed and is fixed in the open position.
Replacing the thermal circuit breaker is the cure. New breaker installed I have 14.4 volts on each battery with the engine running. Thank you for the help diagnosing this problem.
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  #434  
Old 05-31-2019, 08:13 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
Batteries are in parallel. Negative's are connected and positives are split by a 40amp thermal circuit breaker. Starter battery is on the battery/load terminal, house is on the accessory terminal. Boat was configured like this when I bought it in 2012 and I figured it to be factory as it was the same way my 2005 X9 was set up.
Diagnosing the circuit breaker, I found that it isn't working as designed and is fixed in the open position.
Replacing the thermal circuit breaker is the cure. New breaker installed I have 14.4 volts on each battery with the engine running. Thank you for the help diagnosing this problem.
Makes sense and I think we were seeing the same issue in a slightly different manner.

Glad you got it resolved.

Best of the summer for you and family.

.
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  #435  
Old 06-17-2019, 11:42 PM
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mcnorthwest mcnorthwest is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Boat: ProStar 214V, 2009 Indmar 6.0L
Location: Northwest
Posts: 13
Single battery question

OK, I know this is a dual battery thread but I'm trying to solve a single battery problem without having to add a second battery. 2009 Prostar 214V with the following BUSS switch (see pic). It looks like the stater leads are direct from the battery and the two amplifier leads were also run direct from the battery (previous owners). The final lead off the battery post connects to this BUSS switch. Am I correct in assuming everything except the starter and amps can be killed if this BUSS is switched "off" or am I missing something.
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  #436  
Old 07-09-2019, 09:41 PM
landshark landshark is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Boat: MasterCraft, X-10, 2004, 310HP Predator
Location: Midwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcnorthwest View Post
OK, I know this is a dual battery thread but I'm trying to solve a single battery problem without having to add a second battery. 2009 Prostar 214V with the following BUSS switch (see pic). It looks like the stater leads are direct from the battery and the two amplifier leads were also run direct from the battery (previous owners). The final lead off the battery post connects to this BUSS switch. Am I correct in assuming everything except the starter and amps can be killed if this BUSS is switched "off" or am I missing something.
I don't have any experience with that switch, but what you are saying makes logical sense to me.

You could test your theory by turning the switch off and seeing what works, and what doesn't.
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  #437  
Old 07-09-2019, 09:46 PM
landshark landshark is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Boat: MasterCraft, X-10, 2004, 310HP Predator
Location: Midwest
Posts: 14
Dual Battery Success

Just want to thank the group and Diesel in particular. I recently installed the dual battery system he laid out on the first page of this thread. Even without the diagram picture, the directions were easy to follow. It's so nice to not have to worry about battery switches or anything more complicated than the original setup, and now I have the extra peace of mind of having a second, charged, battery on board. All for less than $200 including the second batt.

If anyone needs to see the diagram, let me know, as I drew it up based on the original post.

happy boating all!
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