Restoring 1983 S&S Roulette

[waterlogged882]

Hi Waterlogged, nice to meet you and thanks for joining in

This is a great site and thanks for you efforts. Please,stop with the pictures, I'm drooling.... yeah, quick response, I purchased the boat with complete project in mind. I'm ahead of where I expected to be if I want to be on the lake in another week for a little fun. We've a annual family houseboat trip coming up. If not, no problems. Like Caffn8r said, summer's a burning and I'm totally planning on a major engine overhaul this winter, returning to stock of course, seats, interior, carpet and any other boat repairs that poke up. I've gotten several pops when I'm releasing the start on the ignition key. Thus delve into the ignition rabbit hole, but why since I'm buying a new Petronix Flame Thrower w/ Ignitor II distributor for Ford 351 LHR. and all, coil, spark plug wires. Order's in, waiting delivery hopefully Friday. Otherwise I'd be out there getting the rusty ol Prestolite working.
However this morning's observation added crimping new lugs onto battery cables. I'm digging up sources for crimping lugs and tools locally. My measured resistance on the cleanest spot on that pictured terminal and the block next to the lug is 1.42 ohms.
Just noticed you've straight lugs on your battery cable and thus you've a marine battery. That was going to be my next question, which style comes stock.

I get battery cables custom built from Genuine Dealz dot com. I use battery terminal posts to terminate the cables. I do not know what comes stock per se'. I use Interstate batteries and they come with terminal posts. I further use a terminal fuse block to fuse the hot cable, although not really necessary.

Automotive style cables are not tinned but that is not a show-stopper, just not my preference in a semi-harsh environment.

With the EI you do need to by-pass the resistor. Some folks remove it but I find it is a good terminal block for the wires that pass through. Each to their own.

I use dual batteries so I have extra cables to extra stuff.

Put heating pads in your new seats. Works like a lucky charm. I put them on the bottom and the back for the driver and the passenger. No better time for installing them...as the new skins go on.

.

[Marley]

Yeah, I like the fusing, and in my mind no it isn't required but should be, especially under an occupied seat. I've a 50 amp on my houseboat house supply battery bank and a 100 on my starter battery but I'm sure it is oversized. What amperage rating are you using?

[Ironhorse]

Waterlogged - always enjoy reading your posts. I knew you'd be along at some point!

[waterlogged882]

Yeah, I like the fusing, and in my mind no it isn't required but should be, especially under an occupied seat. I've a 50 amp on my houseboat house supply battery bank and a 100 on my starter battery but I'm sure it is oversized. What amperage rating are you using?

100 amp fuse.

Waterlogged - always enjoy reading your posts. I knew you'd be along at some point!

Thanks for the kind words. I know I post a lot here but I have been at this for a lot of years and mostly I like to share my experience of what little I know with others that hopefully can learn a little and save a little headache. Mostly my posts result from mistakes I have made and short cuts I have learned, but I also have an obsession for these old boats. My first MC was new in 1979. Been at it ever since. Never had another new one. Wouldn't have one now if it was free. I really like the all-mechanical boats that do exactly the same thing as the electronic boats. I wish I knew more about the internals of an engine but I have never had a need to tear into one of these old Fords. There are a lot of folks here that know a lot of good stuff. Some of these gear heads here amaze me with their expertise on engines.

I don't post for attention nor am I a know-it-all. The reason I am here a lot is to read and learn from others. So thanks again for the kind words. I'm just a fat ol' country boy that likes to tinker with boats.

Regards

.

[Marley]

Well nice to know you and being the newbie, thanks for your contributions, I've haunted the site for the last couple of weeks and your comments appear to be honest and forthright. Heck, you're half the reason I signed up. I don't like site that sit for weeks on end with no movement. Means no one is reading.
If you've noticed, I'm a little amiable, but mostly I feel it's easier to get by with a little humor.
100 amps it is. Any suggestions on what to do with the glasscoat for now?

[waterlogged882]

Well nice to know you and being the newbie, thanks for your contributions, I've haunted the site for the last couple of weeks and your comments appear to be honest and forthright. Heck, you're half the reason I signed up. I don't like site that sit for weeks on end with no movement. Means no one is reading.
If you've noticed, I'm a little amiable, but mostly I feel it's easier to get by with a little humor.
100 amps it is. Any suggestions on what to do with the glasscoat for now?

The gel looks fairly oxidized and your trim color (blue) has metalflake in it. That makes for a tough wet sand if you need to go deep to find fresh gel.

So to your question for now....if you're looking for a shimmer or a shine in the short term, I'd run 3M Super Duty over the surface and cut the top layer of grime off of it. That will likely not get you the perfect finish but there lies the problem as I stated. To get the nice new look, you have to go deep to find un-oxidized gel. That constitutes wet sanding with grit paper and then you start getting into the flakes and they are unforgiving for several reasons. You end up with black spots when the flake goes away.

So... cut it with 3M compound for now, follow up with a smoother cut of 3M Finess-It II, then a coat of wax. Learn how to use the proper tools and accessories for the cut because it makes a difference.

To get an original shine (from the looks of the boat...but looks can fool one) likely it needs to be re-sprayed with gel. I did not mention paint. I don't care for that but others here have it and are please with the results. I'm just a purist. One fellow here has a nice looking 79 that has paint on top of the gel. Looks great.

Gel is expensive...mostly the labor for the finish after the new gel is sprayed. It doesn't go on with a lake-ready smooth finish. Thus the choice for paint.

Here's one I worked on. I (knowingly) lost the flake going into it. Now, there may be people here that know a secret approach to the perfect shine that can weigh in. I have tried a lot of work on the flake boats. Mostly leading me to prefer the 84-85 models (non-flake) to work on, and I really like a flake boat. I am not a gel person by any means. That is a skill set all its own.

.

[AZDave]

looks like a firebird boat needs 10 hours in fresh water to remove the salt

[Marley]

Hi AZDave, nice to meet you.
Yes sir, boat is from Dixon, CA, and that was one of my major concerns with the project purchase. I pulled the supply line into the oil cooler and the tube sheet was clean and not corroded. Most salt impact is to the exterior of the engine, specifically to un-coated surfaces. Replacing the distributor and alternator, the starter looks clean. Also shows up on some of the electrical terminations. Luckily the first owner was down in Southern California, fresh water use only. It's only been in Dixon a few years and I'm the third owner. Seller even gave me the original MasterCraft owners binder. Per seller, the 1st owner was a kid that just garaged it. Unfortunately, it appears the seller did some quick hose replacements, battery connectors, put the wrong coil on and used the boat a few times and then it sat, he says a year, I'm guessing 3, outdoors like 98% of most boats.

Waterlogged, I went out to look at my finish and this boat's gel-coat may have been cut deep already. At least on the top, above transom, surface on your last photo, has the black dots you indicated already. I see some flake still on the sides.

OK, todays to do:
1st attempt at cleaning interior, remove seats. ?????? Seat vinyl rejuvenation doubtful, covers
Pull carpet, keep for templates and find scraps for time being.
Remove any and all debris and clean floor and side wall surfaces.
Attempt removal of Battery Cables
Straight lugs for existing battery cables - ordered. I really like straight lugs for the battery cable and posts on the battery for just what Waterlogged has done. A 100 amp fusible link to mount on the post in a marine environment is essential in my mind, and simple. It is not required by code but like some old people, I've a story, that involves, a new class ring, a starting solenoid, and a very luck pseudo mechanic 18 year old who still has his ring finger. Anyway, that was yesterday, today, I'll also review Waterlogged's suggestion about rewiring, at least just the battery cables for now.
Wiring issues, when distributor get here. Tach is toast, spins while turning over engine.

[waterlogged882]

.... Most salt impact is to the exterior of the engine, specifically to un-coated surfaces.

Salt head....The reason I shy away from salt boats, but that's just me...

Sharing a photo of an engine I worked on a few years ago. I went ahead and replaced the heads.

Best luck on the work. You are very diligent....

.

[Marley]

Aww that's nasty looking. I'm going to have nightmares tonight, you know? Can't think about those chlorides sitting in the engine's cooling passages for up to 3 years. I could pull the intake manifold or an exhaust and take a peek. The engine is probably dry but if I remove the intake manifold, debis and water can drop down into the gallery then game over for next week. Exhaust would probably be a better idea. I could also just forget it for now and....yeah right.

OK, add tear down and complete tanking of engine block and heads to required outage repair list. Short blocks for a thou, longs for 2. Where's the fun in that? So, tear down and build in place has just gone to jerk and lift.

[Marley]

OK, yesterday progress.

Was just needing to pull the passenger seat plastic frame and then the floor panel center front to gain access to the battery cables when my wife came out and pulled me by the right ear into the office to get back to work. Lunch is over. Dang! I think she's jealous.

[moosehead]

^Tell her you just want an early morning pull.....

[Marley]

Are Your Ready Ski King?

[moosehead]

Restoring 1983 S&S Roulette

Yes, always.

My neighbor has a nicely done 85 S&S. Such a blast to ski and drive. Low to the water, 351 rumble, corners on a dime, yanks your arms outta the sockets, no wake, built for slalom.

You wet yet?

[Marley]

Aw man that's some nice eye candy!

Yes I'm wet and ready. My haunting is Shasta Lake in California and right now, this morning the water is ~80 and smooth.

Count down to trip is 8 days and counting. I want to get there early and play with the new toy.

Today's items:
clean, clean, clean.
Remove and measure lengths of battery cables. Slam! new straight lugs on existing cables for use until replacements from Waterlogged's most excellent recommendation. (Waterlogged, your cable sizing in your multi battery thread, are those 250 mcm? If so, you don't play around...)
Install new Petronix Plug and Play w/ new 0.6 ohm coil, static time.
Review solenoid, order new one. These always seem to fail after sitting for years, might as well replace now.
Starter, same, review for replacement even thought it looks new. And kind of like the "Arco".
Waiting for alternator, Monday delivery. (again Waterlogged's most excllent recommendation, 105 amp Delco marine) and review for single wire modifications.
Review belts for replacement, local supply. Replace if available. Obtain extra for storage in boat.

Why don't these boat have a thru hull penetration valve on the inboard side. I know a 2' length of hose will stop water here, but what about... I guess you'd be in the boat for most failures but...just wondering.

That's a start..

Oh, and review location of fuel line isolation valve. If none, determine location and order valve. Want this away from engine compartment and over the tank if possible. simple crash door and pull handle after your extinguisher empties and before you bale overboard. A three-way valve mounted at a high point, could also be used to vent and break siphoning of the fuel to the engine compartment. There is a fuel tank vent on the port transom with plumbing modifications, that could be used.

Water pump, both of them. Supply pump was service, per seller. Yeah, better check it. Order 2 impeller kits.
Voltage meter upgrade.
Tach.... gotta have at least the tach.