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Old 06-25-2020, 09:47 AM
Boyderoo Boyderoo is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: Mastercraft X5 2001 Predator on LPG
Location: United kingdom
Posts: 56
Looks like a duifferent tacho is needed from my durite one
the grey wire by the MDC perfect pass unit is a positive polarity and my Durite Tacho is supposed to fit to the negative side of a coil , guess the Farias are different
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Old 06-29-2020, 06:27 PM
salmonwa salmonwa is offline
TT Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2017
Boat: Mastercraft, X30, 2003, MCX
Location: Northeast
Posts: 26
Received my new tach with hour meter and started the process of increasing the hours by using a NE555 single generator board. 5 bucks from amazon. Found an old power supply that has a 12volt DC output. Connected everything up and now I wait for 2weeks to get 360 hours.

Positive and Ground connection share by the gauge and board. Output from the board is connected to the single input on the gauge.

NE555 Duty Cycle Frequency Adjustable Square Wave Signal Generator Board Module by Envistia Mall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKPLR4M..._TCM-Eb50X0XPR
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:32 PM
JPK JPK is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Boat: X9
Location: Midwest
Posts: 329
Can anyone tell me approximately how it will take to do this gauge swap. Or how long it took if you have done it.
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Old 07-14-2020, 03:15 AM
Mark rsa2au's Avatar
Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Boat: 99 ProStar 205 LTR330
Location: Australia
Posts: 391
Originally Posted by JPK View Post
Can anyone tell me approximately how it will take to do this gauge swap. Or how long it took if you have done it.
Took me about 4-5 hours but I did some additional work under the dash for lighting etc, and regular breaks for beer and lunch. It is not hard if you are handy and have some idea of auto electrics. If not then follow the instructions and double-check everything.


'99 Mastercraft ProStar 205 330-LTR
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:06 AM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
MC Devotee
Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
Location: Pacific
Posts: 1,271
One weekend in my case working on it about 4 hours a day. However, I did rip out most of the original harness that was unnecessary and made a new harness.

The 2002+ boats will take longer due to the need for additional wiring.
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Old 07-14-2020, 01:21 PM
master sm master sm is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Boat: 2001 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: United States
Posts: 14
Ok I am about to order the Faria gauges. Not going with the six pack since I want the GPS Speedo and the Tach with hour meter. I have a 2001 Maristar 230 and I believe I have the MDC and can follow the original write up almost exactly. My only question is the fuel sending unit. I have the Moeller 395-075 Maristar 2001. I am planning on ordering the Wema SSS but have seen where people have ordered 10", 9", & 9.5". Does anyone know which is the best fit so I don't have to go out and pull my out and measure the tank depth?
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:31 AM
tuckerjt07 tuckerjt07 is offline
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Join Date: May 2020
Boat: 2000 Maristar 210 VRS
Location: US
Posts: 17
Originally Posted by outoftheoffice View Post
FINALLY...I am done with my swap.

I dropped a new fuel gauge in, fired up the engine and everything works! Temp sender came up to operating temp in a normal amount of time and had a readout of around 125 after 5-10 min. I used a temp gun to compare the temps at the brass T fitting I installed vs the black engine block just below it (where the original temp sender was installed). The difference was consistently around 10 degrees F. In the short term I'm not too worried about this and plan to check it again next time we're on the water for a longer period of time. I found up to three other potential spots to tap into that I may consider moving the single wire sender to in the future: port on the block down under the exhaust manifold on the starboard side of the engine (same as knock sensor but opposite side of engine), two ports near the spark plug wires, one on either side of the engine (but my understanding of these ports is that they'll read head temperature, which will consistently be ~10 degrees F hotter than the stock sender location on top of the block).

Good luck to anyone else out there that might go down this path and feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions - I don't mind at least trying to help (even though I might not know the answer!).




Do you have some closeups of your depth sounder and check engine light connections. I have a perfect running boat with a constant check engine light and am hoping it's because of wires being crossed.

The one with the empty blade runs to the sounder. The other to the light. The boat is 2000 Maristar 210 VRS.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-30-2020, 01:44 PM
01Maristar 01Maristar is offline
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Join Date: May 2020
Boat: 01 Maristar 210VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1

I completed my gauge replacement this weekend. I bought an 01 Maristar 210 VRS in May, and on the test drive noticed a couple of the gauges weren't working. Thought I'd be hunting a loose ground or similar... didn't realize I'd be replacing every one. Over the next few weeks I found this forum and realized what I needed to do. And today I'm sure glad I did. Thanks to Jeff and everyone in this thread for the contributions, making this an easy Saturday project.

A few notes... I ordered my gauges and depth sounder in early June, and called Centroid for a new fuel sending unit per the advice here. Mary was a trip and very nice, was able to get me a new custom sending unit within 10 days. However... waiting on depth sounder.. back ordered until late July. Finally came in I found a free weekend to get it done.

The swapout went very easy, just as described here. I had a few additional wires on my MDC and Gauge harnesses, but after reading through I was confident they weren't needed.

Here's what I had to the MDC that I didn't use:
MDC harness:
Orange (constant power?)
Orange / black stripe (switched power? second speedo?)
Blue ?? (marked with an "1" or an "I")

Gauge Harness:
Brown (which I think is related to the rocker switch on the dash for tuning the speedo)

I sealed the ends and coiled all of these up and left them in the dash.

Fuel gauge didn't move until I swapped the sending unit. Direct replacement, even plugged into the existing wire harness. Turned the ignition on and went completely full (only half tank of fuel) and held for about one second, and then snapped right to half. Perfect.

Ran it in the driveway this morning and was able to verify oil and temp working fine.

On to the next project! Probably dual batteries.

On a related note, I have a whole box of medallion parts (6 gauges, MDC 1600, wire harnesses, etc.) that I'll ship to anyone that wants them... just pay shipping and they're yours.
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:51 PM
JRCivic1 JRCivic1 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Boat: 2001 MasterCraft 19 Skier
Location: The South - Roll Tide
Posts: 1
Thank You Jeff d

First, let me offer up a big "Thank You" to Jeff d for providing this information to retrofit analog gauges into an MDC equipped boat... without this, I would NOT have purchased the boat that I have now.

In mid June, I went on a sea trial (test drive in marine speak ?) in a 2001 MasterCraft 19 Skier. The Red/White hull color was just what I was looking for, however, upon initial inspection, I noticed all of the gauge faces were cracked/scratched and were obviously in need of replacement. The seller then informed me that the fuel level gauge didn't work, so I knew I was in for some work to get the instrumentation all up to snuff. Once the boat hit the water, I turned the key and discovered that NONE of the gauges appeared to be working !!! After a few moments of the engine running, the temperature gauge did begin to rise, so that one may be working correctly. Either way, I knew I needed gauge replacements and now I was confident that the MDC was trashed. The cost of replacing these items would have made the deal on the boat out of reach... but knowing that I could convert back to analog style gauges would save enough money to make it work.

I brought the boat home and ordered up a complete set of Chesapeake SS Black gauges from Boatersland.com. I opted to get the Tach with hour meter, and I decided to replace one of the two pitot type Speedometers with a GPS one... this way I could compare the accuracy of the two. I also added a matching Depth Finder to round out the 8-gauge panel.

Once I received my gauges, I followed Jeff d's write up and re-wired the instrument panel. Feeling triumphant, I turned the key to briefly crank the boat and watch all of the gauges come alive. Immediately, I realized that the fuel level gauge still didn't work and the oil pressure gauge didn't work. Rats !!!

Reading beyond the first page of this thread revealed the fuel sending unit compatibility issues, so I promptly ordered the proper length (11.5") WEMA SSL two-wire 33 ohm full/240 ohm empty sending unit. Once installed, the fuel gauge worked.

Next, I pulled the oil pressure gauge back out to see if I had made a mistake in the wiring... all looked good there. I tested continuity between the signal post on the back of the gauge and the oil pressure sending unit on the block... good tone, so the wire is good. This means that the sending unit is bad or the gauge is bad. I ordered both from Boatersland.com just to be safe, and am currently waiting for those parts to arrive. Fingers crossed that this will finally get me perfect.
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Old 09-12-2020, 07:38 PM
BGcraft's Avatar
BGcraft BGcraft is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Boat: Current 02 PS190SD. Past 95 PS205
Location: Nashville,TN
Posts: 174
Gauge Tech Notes/Diagrams - and bonus mini rant

Thought <this doc> might be useful...don’t remember seeing it during the many times I’ve perused this thread. Many thanks to the OP and the add’l intel posted here- it’s been super helpful.

So for me, gauge replacement project this winter after learning from local MC dealer: Medallion gauges are $250+ (each), are un-returnable, and the service dept. is unwilling to work on legacy wiring and gauge issues prior to 2008 hulls. Cherry on top...the MMDC box might be faulty and need to be replaced for $800+, however, the dealer touch that either or let you return. Very frustrating and disappointing to be left to fend for myself. Feel like loyal customers and a fan base that takes pride in maintaining their boats (and reps the MC brand name) should receive more service/support for legacy MC offerings.

I did call Knoxville, TN MC for a goof- super cool/helpful service dept. They will re-wire with Faria gauges and a new harness for ~$1800. I may tow it there and pony up if I jack up my gauge project this winter.

no affiliation here- but I am diggin these marine gauges from <autometer>. All the secondaries are fairly inexpensive. No 4” tach but may try and retro-fit their 5”. Don’t need speedos as I’m running PP stargazer and gps speedo. Just looking for something clean looking as the Faria and Sierra gauges don’t match my application.

Ski hard, bourbon up, and be well.

02 PS190SD - PP SGazer, 0 Flex Mini, 06 Rudder
It's a ski-boat not a mini-van...

Last edited by BGcraft; 09-22-2020 at 08:47 PM.
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