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  #1  
Old 07-25-2021, 05:52 PM
scottryan scottryan is offline
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Need Help with Major Electrical or Ignition Switch Problem

Guys

I have a 2001 P209 with LTR 330. We were pulling a skier today about 30 MPH with the perfect pass engaged.

The perfect pass began to disengage on its own then the boat entirely quit running.

The gauges are frozen in position and the ignition will not turn on any electrical components.

Stereo will not power up. Dash will not power up. Fuel pump will not power up. Stepper motor on perfect pass will not power up.

I took the lanyard safety kill switch out of the side panel below throttle and ran power through this switch and it appears this switch is working correctly.

The circuit breaker for the ignition under the dash is not tripped.

I cannot access the back of the dash to get at any wires coming from the ignition switch itself.

Please help. I don’t know what else to check or how to fix this.

Thanks
Scott
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  #2  
Old 07-25-2021, 06:05 PM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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What about the neutral position switch on the tranny?
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Old 07-25-2021, 06:10 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osmonet View Post
What about the neutral position switch on the tranny?
Nope.

literally all that does is interrupt the starter. once running no effect. none on gauges either.
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Old 07-25-2021, 06:11 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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you need a voltmeter.

You need to go to the battery and read voltage. Anywhere there should be power read voltage.

either your main breaker on the engine popped OR a ground failed.

the happening while running aspect makes me thing something shorted out

Could have had a bad alternator then lost batterybvotlage and died too but usually then things like blower or bilge will atleast function poorlu.
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Old 07-25-2021, 06:15 PM
scottryan scottryan is offline
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I have a multimeter and have 15v up to the red power wire under the dash. But then I don’t know where to check.

Also have 15v at the battery.

I have power on both sides of the 40A breaker under the passenger seat.

The blower and bilge still work.
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  #6  
Old 07-25-2021, 08:39 PM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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you mentioned breaker under dash.....Isn't there a main breaker in the engine compartment too. I've never tripped it, so don't know what would be cut out.
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  #7  
Old 07-25-2021, 08:41 PM
scottryan scottryan is offline
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OK, I found the red 50A breaker button on the back of the engine and pressed it. It was tripped and I got the boat started.

I drove the boat around the lake 3 times at various speeds ranging from 20 to 40 mph with the prefect pass engaged. I also drove the boat around the lake at various speeds with the prefect pass intentionally shut off.

Boat operated normally for now.
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  #8  
Old 07-26-2021, 12:04 AM
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Check battery wires, starter connections.. starter relay... 50 amps only trips by a few things in the boat

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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  #9  
Old 07-26-2021, 07:21 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I've had the engine mount breaker kick once or twice over the years and could never figure out why. Each time I ran through the ground and power circuits and never really found anything. That said it certainly didn't hurt cleaning them all up and inspecting them. Now would be a good time for you to do the same and replace any cables that look remotely bad, especially the cables going to the battery. These can rot out in the jacket at the connection point at the battery. They seem to be particularly bad if you have lead lug type battery connections. If you see any swelling of the jacket near the connection this is typically an indicator that something is going on inside the jacket.
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Old 07-26-2021, 07:42 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Look at the fuses on the engine and add the current ratings- an ignition system can use a lot of current.

What accessories were added after you bought the boat and where were their power (positive AND ground) leads connected?

You need to look at the loads and their ground paths WRT the battery posts, not any other place. This means that a bunch of positive cables connected under the seats or dash can't work properly if they don't have an adequate ground connection to the battery and that means grounding to the engine because it's a convenient place won't work unless the main ground cable's gauge is increased.
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