1998 Maristar 225 VRS - engine, Fiberglass Repair

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  • GatorS
    TT Newbie
    • May 2019
    • 17

    #16
    Same question still..

    When pulling the transmission one of the bolts that goes into the boat frame was stripped out. Can these be tapped to a bigger size? Is there a metal insert inside the fiberglass that everything is bolted down to?

    Comment

    • FrankSchwab
      MC Devotee
      • Aug 2004
      • 2173

      #17
      I wish I had an answer for you. I would guess that the answer is "Yes, there's a metal plate in there", but I won't swear to that.
      1998 Maristar 200VRS

      Comment

      • waterlogged882
        MC Master Poster
        • Dec 2004
        • 16600

        #18
        Originally posted by GatorS View Post
        Same question still..

        When pulling the transmission one of the bolts that goes into the boat frame was stripped out. Can these be tapped to a bigger size? Is there a metal insert inside the fiberglass that everything is bolted down to?
        I have worked primarily on older era boats but this is in line with what I found in a 93 model while relocating the fuel filter from the "stringer" to the rear of the boat.

        I took the filter bracket off and discovered these (below photographs) machine threaded screws that were inserted into what appears to be the sectional area of the hull (stringers do not exist in the later models as I know them in the early 80s era, thus the "sectional area" reference).

        I venture to say your transmission mount is similar or like this same construction configuration (only 5 years apart).

        I have ran into this issue (as you stated) numerous times on older hulls and have used MarineTex (gray) to fill a hole, let it cure overnight, then drill and tap. I have never had a failure so far.

        One thing to consider (for general assessment) is the type of threads on the bolt that secures the transmission...i.e. lag, pipe, or machine threads.

        I use inserts from time to time for modifications on this or that (never use readily available brass material...too soft) but I would hesitate to put in an insert then follow on with a threaded bolt. Keep it simple....fill the hole with MarineTex (a two-part epoxy filler) and tap it for threading. That stuff is hard as a rock and strong as an ox. You may think to use your existing epoxy resin you have on hand and that may be OK but you'll need to thicken it with silica powder and use chop strand for tensile reinforcement. Thus the recommendation for the MarineTex (gray). It pops quickly so be ready to fill when you have added the hardener. It sands very easily (contrary to the thought of it being hard as a rock) so don't worry about getting the outer finish surface smooth. Pack the hole and let it cure. The MarineTex does not shrink upon curing. It's good stuff. A 2-ounce kit will get you two - three uses and one use will easily fill several holes.

        Tap it with the compatible bolt threads and don't look back. Cheap Harbor Freight taps work like a lucky charm. The lesser TPI bolts the better (although I do not recommend lag threads).

        If you have bottom work and need to fill in an odd direction, I use a syringe to fill in upwards or sideways. Mix the epoxy and draw it up into the syringe, then inject as needed. Works like a lucky charm. No need for a needle...just use the plunger. Readily available at any pharmacy. I got some from Walmart pharmacy.

        Your cloth work looks good.

        I agree with your other assessments throughout the rebuild. My take is the hump is a vibration dampener. I have one on my 93 direct drive as well.

        Thanks for the photographs. Interesting to see the results of your dissection.

        Nice shoes.


        .
        Attached Files
        Last edited by waterlogged882; 06-21-2019, 06:10 AM.
        93 190
        (safe click)
        John 14:6
        (safe click)

        Comment

        • waterlogged882
          MC Master Poster
          • Dec 2004
          • 16600

          #19
          Originally posted by GatorS View Post
          If any one has any pictures of what this area (above strut, rudder brace, log area, generally the back of the inside without the motor) looked like before the redneck repair that occurred before me I would appreciate it.
          If I understand this correctly, you may be talking about the general cut out area that looks like it was never filled in to match the rest of the hull...here is a direct drive layout. Maybe I am missing your point of question....

          That is common in most hulls.

          .
          Attached Files
          93 190
          (safe click)
          John 14:6
          (safe click)

          Comment

          • GatorS
            TT Newbie
            • May 2019
            • 17

            #20
            Thanks for the replies. I was looking for the pic of the strut and log area to compare to mine. It had been "repaired" with the engine in place and was a mess. As you see in the pics above I removed all that and started over.

            Unfortunately I had a renter move out and am trying to fix up a house to sell so I haven't worked on this for 3 weeks. If not for that this would be back together. I have all the parts ready to go back in.

            I ordered some Marine-tex gray and will post pics when I do that. The transmission housing was bolted down with fine thread bolts so I will go back with that. May use the marine tex to sculpt the bottom back into shape somewhat as well. I did a little glass work there, but is is hard to apply fiberglass upside down.

            It will be the end of next week before I likely get back to this. Maybe it will get on the water this summer...

            Comment

            • waterlogged882
              MC Master Poster
              • Dec 2004
              • 16600

              #21
              Originally posted by GatorS View Post
              I did a little glass work there, but is is hard to apply fiberglass upside down.

              It will be the end of next week before I likely get back to this. Maybe it will get on the water this summer...
              Wet the cloth in an aluminum baking pan (Dollar Store) on the work bench (mix, pour, and brush it wet), then (with nitrile gloves) lay the cloth on the surface and roll out the air bubbles.

              Or use thickened epoxy to spread it on the area using a putty knife (without cloth). Without seeing the area, you may not have to use cloth.

              $0.02

              .
              Attached Files
              Last edited by waterlogged882; 06-22-2019, 06:04 PM.
              93 190
              (safe click)
              John 14:6
              (safe click)

              Comment

              • GatorS
                TT Newbie
                • May 2019
                • 17

                #22
                I got some Marine-Tex Grey and puttied up the holes around the edges of the mount location for the strut. When I mixed it up it was black instead of grey. Oh well it dried hard anyway so maybe it was ok. I applied it with a smooth putty knife and when dry sanded it smooth, checking with a small straight edge. Its pretty flat.



                This was before I ground it back smooth.

                Next I precut the 24 oz roving to patch the inside. I started small and cut progressively bigger pieces, with some angled etc.









                Where is stands now.



                I probably need to go over this with the 6 oz to get a smooth surface. I have sanded the area down and removed all the burrs and splinters, but its not smooth due to the heavy cloth.


                I also drilled the holes for the strut. The floor is about 3/4" thick at the strut of solid total boat epoxy glass with 6 and 24 oz glass.


                I figured I should replace the strut bushing before I put it back in. I ordered them Monday, will have to wait for that to go further.

                All the other parts are there but haven't really started assembling it yet.

                Comment

                • GatorS
                  TT Newbie
                  • May 2019
                  • 17

                  #23
                  Also I discovered I made a mistake. In an effort to keep the fiberglass safe I put some plastic on tit with a light sticky backing on it. Well as this has dragged on it was on there in the summer heat for a lot longer than I anticipated.


                  Well not the crap won't come off. I picked on it for a couple hours and made frustrating little progress.


                  I did try a hair dryer on it tonight and it was coming off a little better. It is leaving the glue so that will have to be cleaned off with goo be gone or something. Long story short never ever ever put stickey plastic on the fiberglass.


                  (I did test it before I went all the way with it and it came off easy, two summer months in the shed later not so much)




                  Secondly, what is the recommended sealant to use on the strut bolts, and the prop bolts, also when I took the strut off it was basically caulked into place with silicone. Should it be done that way or just silicone on the bolts?

                  What is the correct sealant to use on the through hull bolts?

                  Comment

                  • FrankSchwab
                    MC Devotee
                    • Aug 2004
                    • 2173

                    #24
                    Silicone is pretty universal. The strut has a layer of silicone between it and the hull, with an extra squirt around the bolt holes to seal them. Don't fall into the trap of using 3M 5200 because it's "better" - you'll be cursing if you ever need to remove the bolts/strut in the future.

                    A slight leak around the bolts isn't a big deal - might just mean that your bilge pump runs once an hour rather than once every few hours - unless you keep the boat floating on the water.
                    1998 Maristar 200VRS

                    Comment

                    • sp00ky
                      MC Devotee
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 1098

                      #25
                      Originally posted by GatorS View Post
                      Also I discovered I made a mistake. In an effort to keep the fiberglass safe I put some plastic on tit with a light sticky backing on it. Well as this has dragged on it was on there in the summer heat for a lot longer than I anticipated.


                      Well not the crap won't come off. I picked on it for a couple hours and made frustrating little progress.


                      I did try a hair dryer on it tonight and it was coming off a little better. It is leaving the glue so that will have to be cleaned off with goo be gone or something. Long story short never ever ever put stickey plastic on the fiberglass.


                      (I did test it before I went all the way with it and it came off easy, two summer months in the shed later not so much)




                      Secondly, what is the recommended sealant to use on the strut bolts, and the prop bolts, also when I took the strut off it was basically caulked into place with silicone. Should it be done that way or just silicone on the bolts?

                      What is the correct sealant to use on the through hull bolts?
                      Thanks for all the pics. This thread has been interesting. I found that moving blankets on the hull make a great protection while doing engine work. Don't beat yourself up too bad on the sticky plastic gel coat is thick and can be sanded easily if you need to. Try some WD-40
                      2010 X-15
                      SOLD 1994 205
                      2021 Nissan Titan
                      2011 Pathfinder
                      2016 Ford Flex
                      3 kids, a wife, and a boat dog
                      1 kid in the Army
                      1 kid college grad
                      1 left..

                      Comment

                      • GatorS
                        TT Newbie
                        • May 2019
                        • 17

                        #26
                        Here is the final fiberglass application.



                        Strut bearings replaced


                        Installation of the strut


                        Motor put back together..

                        Motor changes....new clutch plate, new transmission heat exchanger, new hoses, new water pump, new seals in the transmission, new impeller, strut bearings replaced, boat bottom rebuilt. and finally all the dang sticky plastic wrap removed!!







                        [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hb26qm]











                        I didn’t do a very good job of taking pics while putting it back together


                        While aligning the motor, the left rear motor foot was frozen. I put it in my vice and broke the vice trying to free the threads. I gave up on that and ended up shimming the motor foot to raise it during the alignment. I got the coupling gap to less than .0015 when I decided it was good enough.

                        Comment

                        • GatorS
                          TT Newbie
                          • May 2019
                          • 17

                          #27
                          We took it out saturday and it ran well. The prop is a little bent on one side and you could tell that with the vibration. It wasn't bad but I noticed it. I will have that repaired after it gets winterized in a month or so.







                          Comment

                          • Timr71
                            MC Fanatic
                            • May 2016
                            • 595

                            #28
                            Nice work!

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