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  #11  
Old 04-28-2021, 04:21 PM
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prostar205 prostar205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdiesel View Post
Should be the harness side. I believe the pins are numbered too, but may have to take a pic and zoom in to be able to read them.

Where did you get your voltage gage from? My fuel gage needs replacing and MC parts depot is the only place I've found one. They think a lot of it to say the least.
I got the gauge from my local dealership. They had one in stock. Helps that my son works there too. I also contacted Medallion direct and they would sell me one for $170.
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Last edited by prostar205; 04-28-2021 at 05:06 PM.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2021, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bdiesel View Post
I hate that didn't wind up being the problem, but at least you ruled those connections out. Before you turn it over to someone else you could pull the 24 pin connector from the MMDC and verify voltage on pins 12 & 24, and 11 & 24 with key on(see attachment). Be a quick and simple check.

Perfect pass gets power, RPM, and paddle wheel speed through a separate harness behind the kick panel. You should be able to narrow down pretty quick where it's getting power from. Since PP & the volt gauge are showing the same voltage I would lean towards tracing the problem through the PP feed for direction.
Went down to the boat and took the measures you suggested and they all meet the ranges in your attached document.

I did find an issue with a ground in the factory wiring harness. See pictures below. Anyone know the name of the company that makes this connector? I would like to re-pin the ground to the one open slot. I would need a new Male and Female pin and socket. If not, I'll just cut the ground off on both sides of the connector and splice in some new wire with butt connector and heat shrink tubing.
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Last edited by prostar205; 05-02-2021 at 10:21 AM.
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2021, 10:43 AM
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These look like Molex connectors. Can anyone confirm?
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2021, 06:18 PM
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It's FIXED!!! I removed all 8 wires from both sides of the connector and spliced them together with weatherproof splices and heat shrink tubing. Fired the boat up and now I am getting 13 volts at idle and 13+ volts at 1,500 rpm. I can't remember the last time my volt gauge saw 13+ volts. Happy that is over. Hopefully worry free boating this summer.
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  #15  
Old 05-01-2021, 07:51 PM
Torstenlaw Torstenlaw is offline
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That's awesome, so satisfying when you solve a problem!!!
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2021, 03:38 AM
motomario motomario is offline
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-"I did find an issue with a ground in the factor wiring harness."
Good news! That's how you don't want to,but you'll become an electrician.
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2021, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by motomario View Post
-"I did find an issue with a ground in the factor wiring harness."
Good news! That's how you don't want to,but you'll become an electrician.
I'm not a fan of electrical issues - especially in my boat. Give me a mechanical issue, I will find a solution. I think I was just lucky finding that bad ground. Hopefully that will be last, at for a while.
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2021, 02:58 PM
bdiesel bdiesel is offline
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Originally Posted by prostar205 View Post
I'm not a fan of electrical issues - especially in my boat. Give me a mechanical issue, I will find a solution. I think I was just lucky finding that bad ground. Hopefully that will be last, at for a while.
I'd rather be lucky than good! You took a methodical approach and located the issue. I'm glad you took another stab at it and fixed it yourself without having to take it to someone else. Time to enjoy the summer!
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2021, 12:14 PM
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I celebrated too early. The low voltage issue is still there. Incredibly frustrating. Luckily the boat runs great but unless we are at or above 1,000 rpm, the low voltage alarm will eventually go off.

Here is what I've got.
At idle (750 rpm), the voltage drops fairly quickly to around 11.2/11.3. These readings are taken from both the volt gauge and the Perfect Pass display. Could it be the voltage regulator on the alternator?

Around 1,000 rpm, the voltage jumps up to 12.3 read from the Perfect Pass gauge and just over 13+ on the volt gauge.

Anyone have any ideas other than another bad ground somewhere?

Thanks for the help.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2021, 12:39 PM
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waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostar205 View Post
I celebrated too early. The low voltage issue is still there. Incredibly frustrating. Luckily the boat runs great but unless we are at or above 1,000 rpm, the low voltage alarm will eventually go off.

Here is what I've got.
At idle (750 rpm), the voltage drops fairly quickly to around 11.2/11.3. These readings are taken from both the volt gauge and the Perfect Pass display. Could it be the voltage regulator on the alternator?

Around 1,000 rpm, the voltage jumps up to 12.3 read from the Perfect Pass gauge and just over 13+ on the volt gauge.

Anyone have any ideas other than another bad ground somewhere?

Thanks for the help.
I think your alternator has a built in exciter and it takes that RPM (minimum) to trigger the exciter for output. If that is the case, seems the alternator is working OK.

I could be wrong but something to consider in the process of elimination.

Power at the Volt gauge is coming from the starter post (yes?). PP is piggybacked from the volt gauge (yes). Once the alternator is alternating, you get peak power. Without that you are getting the drop for low voltage.

Test the wire to the volt gauge by running a stand-alone wire (10ga) from the starter to the volt gauge. See if it allows a better result, then you may have a corroded wire (19 years old) that is allowing for resistance.

US $0.02 and a guess.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-30-2021 at 12:50 PM.
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