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  #121  
Old 06-06-2018, 01:54 PM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft,205,1996
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Mike, I am going to help someone with a 2000 205 very soon. Did the colors match up with your boat? What length fuel sensor did you need? What did you do with the pitot tubes?
Thanks
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  #122  
Old 06-06-2018, 02:12 PM
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sheckski sheckski is offline
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Boat: 2000 205v ltr
Location: new england
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Definitely interested and following for these answers. With respect to the pitot tubes I will just share that I retired mine quite a while ago. I just snipped at the stern, removed from the MCX and then zip tied to the harness. There is no water incursion as there is no pressure being applied.
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  #123  
Old 06-06-2018, 03:01 PM
jchance jchance is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Boat: 2001 Maristar 210VRS
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I have the Kronos in my 2001 Maristar 210VRS and they look outstanding. I also changed the face of the depth finder to white to match.

For Jchance: Thank you for the clarification. So that I am clear, the inputs are spread across the two plugs, correct? i just want to make sure that it is not one side in and the other out.

As for the wires, there is a plug for the incoming analog signals and a plug for the outgoing digital harness. There are fewer wires in the outgoing one. Perhaps only 4 but I'm not sure and I am 125 miles from my boat. The digital wires go daisy-chaining from gauge to gauge and are ALL the same 4 colors AT EACH GAUGE. The incoming signal wires were all of standard BIA/NEMA wire colors. Again, I don't remember which was which at this point but you can look on the internet for the color table. I put a harness plug for the wires going into the MMDC and put the matching plug on the wires to the gauges so I could quick disconnect the dash if I had to remove it again. I also order pretinned copper stranded marine wire from Anchor to make a new harness and complete the wiring. You will have to make a red and a black wire jumper from the terminal blocks under the dash for 12v and ground. You will also have to run a new blue wire for backlighting to each gauge from the dash switch; daisy-chaining the red/black/blue wires to each gauge. Again, I put these into a harness with a quick disconnect plug too.

The only glitch was the fuel sender. Joel will need the number off the top of the sender on the top of the fuel tank AND what gauge you are using for a replacement. With that info he can match which one you need.

Lastly, as far as speed and hours, I use my PerfectPass to keep up with both.

Hope this helps. PM is you have any specific questions.
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  #124  
Old 06-06-2018, 04:45 PM
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sheckski sheckski is offline
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Boat: 2000 205v ltr
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Perfect. All well understood. Thank you
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  #125  
Old 06-11-2018, 02:52 PM
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lakedawg lakedawg is offline
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Boat: 2000 X5 "Red Five"
Location: Rabun County, GA
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Someone inquired a few pages back about advancing the hour meter. I purchased the 6 gauge package in the Kronos color scheme then purchased the "combo" tach and hour meter. I found a thread about hooking the hour meter up to a digital sign wave generator to run the hour meter to match the hours. The hardest part is you have to wait a LOOOOOOOONG time to get the hours right, LOL! My boat has 350+ hours since a previous owner got a rebuild so I just ran to match that. Took 2 weeks! That is better than waiting 2 months LOL! I used an old PC to generate 12v power.
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  #126  
Old 06-21-2018, 09:59 AM
petemay121 petemay121 is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, ProStar 190, 2001
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Process started... I am going to end the long running battle of the "MDC Medallion BS".
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  #127  
Old 06-27-2018, 11:41 PM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft,205,1996
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I am working on a friend's 2002 205V. I am having issues with finding a wiring diagram. There are no pitot tubes in this boat, but there is a paddle wheel in the hull. I am also having issues with where to pull power for the gauge lights (blue wire). Aren't they all daisy changed, so can't I use the existing blue wires and jumper power from only one location? There is also a "Batt" signal wire that is labeled, but I thought I would run the 12v power directly to the voltage gauge. Should that wire terminate in a specific location?
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  #128  
Old 06-28-2018, 07:05 AM
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BriEOD BriEOD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhjgh View Post
Mike, I am going to help someone with a 2000 205 very soon. Did the colors match up with your boat? What length fuel sensor did you need? What did you do with the pitot tubes?
Thanks
I did this is my 2000 PS 205. With few exceptions (two wires for the clock), everything matches up as described by the original author. For those two exceptions, read back through this thread as I noted the differences and recommend you just cap those wires. For the fuel sensor, you cannot make any decision until you decide on the gauge you're going to install. Once you get a fuel gauge, send the specs on the gauge (resistance, etc) and a picture of the top of your current fuel sender to Joel @ Centroid. They will send you a new fuel sensor within a few days that is plug-n-play.
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  #129  
Old 06-28-2018, 10:26 AM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Boat: Mastercraft,205,1996
Location: Midwest
Posts: 149
For the 2002, the wire harnesses are not similar to the earlier write-up. I am hoping someone may have a wiring diagram for that year, which would be very helpful. After disconnecting the MDC, the blower, navigation lights, etc no longer work. I believe I found the switched ignition power, but they pass through 3A in-line fuses in the harness which seems strange. I am not sure how to get power to the backlights for the gauges. There are brown, brown/white, green, greyish black, and a black wire labeled as MDC that I am unsure about. Also a red wire labeld as BATT that does not seem to carry power. I can post some pictures if anyone thinks that will help.
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  #130  
Old 06-28-2018, 12:07 PM
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tph tph is offline
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Boat: '83 Metalflake Blue on Grey S&S Powerslot, 351W
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Maybe these guys could build a harness for you.

https://www.skiboatpartsonline.com/i...conversion+kit
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